Is it possible to contemplate holidays in eastern Himalayas – of any description -  without Darjeeling intruding somewhere? In 1896 Mark Twain boarded the ‘Toy Train’ at Siliguri and was so entranced by the 40 mile, 8-hour journey to Darjeeling that he immediately declared it as “the most enjoyable day I have spent on the Earth.” And if you have seen BBC 4’s wonderful series on Indian Hill Trains with one of the episodes devoted to the Darjeeling hill train or Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (in its present avatar of world heritage monument), you’ll understand just why. It isn’t just the stupendous scenery as the track jacknifes its way up some of the most precipitous mountains on Earth; it isn’t even the richness of trees and plants and flowers and shrubs that that you encounter or even the velvety lushness of the endless tea that you pass through beyond Kurseong. No – it’s the fact that this little train and its tiny tracks are so deeply woven into the human landscape of the Darjeeling hills, shouldering it’s way through traffic jams and pedestrians and roadside markets and quaint little stations, monasteries and temples, often at no more than a slow walking pace – a human pace. And if you are incredibly lucky and find a completely clear day, you could even find yourself steaming past the massive rearing bulk of Kangchenjunga seemingly almost within touching distance. That is magic.

Eastern Himalayas

But don’t harbour too many illusions about Darjeeling. Yes, some of the old buildings of the Raj remain but for the most part the town has surrendered to the ramshackle decrepitude and general nondescriptness that has infected so many of the old hill stations. Not so the surrounding countryside, however. A mere hour and a half from Darjeeling and 3000 feet lower will bring you to Glenburn.

Glenburn

Glenburn is the name of a tea plantation and in the name one can detect the plaintive yearning of a Brit far from home – a yearning quickly doused by the cold realities of ‘home’ when compared with the indulgences of India during the Raj – especially if you were a Sahib. Well – think of all the indulgences, service, comfort, scenery, outdoor recreation, indoor décor and style, cuisine and little un-thought of luxuries that your imagination might conjure up – then multiply by two and you have Glenburn. A fabulous creation of Husna-Tara Prakash, the wife of the owner of Glenburn, who has converted the old managers bungalow and added another new wing built in faithful imitation of the old planter’s style and furnished them with such perfect taste and understated but natural style that the word ‘boutique’ intrudes as a crass interloper. I have one rule – if any client gets anywhere near the eastern Himalayas, they have to end up at Glenburn – no matter how many raging mountain torrents they have to ford, cliff-edge mule-tracks to negotiate, yak trains they have to follow – Glenburn is a must. Almost my most favourite place in these hills. Watch this space…

A tiger safari in India has to be one of the profoundest wilderness experiences of any – if it’s done right. For anyone who has been lucky enough to have seen tigers – no matter how many times – it is always that first electrifying sighting that will stay until memory lasts. For me that was 32 years ago on a dark, still winter’s night in the middle of a terai jungle. We had crept up a sanded path to a grass hide in utter silence, shaded torches lighting our way as wee creatures skittered in the scant growth under giant sal trees. Without a sound we positioned ourselves at the little ‘portholes’ careful not to touch the grass walls for even the tiniest unnatural rustle could give the game away – and we were stalking the biggest of big game. A soft nudge and suddenly, in the beam of the spotlight, where there was darkness edged by starlight, is over 600 pounds of nonchalant golden power caged in black stripes. He was a tiger they called ‘Thhulo Bhale’, The Big Male. He had been tranquilised, collared, weighed and measured but he was utterly wild, alert to every sound, grown to adulthood when these jungles were still open to legal hunting, wary and intolerant of humans. There are days when I struggle to remember whose face it is in the mirror that I’m shaving but the memory of that night remains vivid, every detail sharp and clear – ready to run and re-run in my mind’s eye and bring warmth to the heart.

It is natural to be anxious about one’s chances of seeing a tiger when one invests so much hope, money and time on a tiger safari but to my mind it’s not just seeing a tiger that’s important but how you see one – the quality of the experience – an experience that doesn’t merely provide a visual sighting any old how but which can capture something of the vital essence of this elusive, almost mystical creature. And that really is the secret of planning a memorable tiger safari. Ensuring good, sensitive guides who avoid the tiger frenzy and are instead prepared to use patience, luck and skill to track tigers and in the process bring alive the majesty and mystery of the jungle; staying in small atmospheric lodges or camps that are owned by passionate wilderness people who still provide the wonderful comfort, warmth and good food that must underpin every good holiday but who also know and love their jungles in ways that the more commercial establishments simply can’t; going to places where the crowds haven’t reached or where it is possible to break away from the crowds; of trying to ensure that every sighting will be a memory to treasure and not just a tick on a sterile list. So – no, we can’t guarantee a tiger (although our luck’s been good so far) but we can guarantee you the time of your life.

Thinking of India safaris, I thought I would share a recent experience with you! No matter what a lifetime of experience might teach you, being face to face at 15 yards with a ton of pure ebony skinned muscle with nothing between you but a ragged cockscomb of thatch grass does trigger a wee surge of adrenalin. The bull gaur (Bos gaurus the largest wild cattle in the world), looked at us with the unsettlingly bovine flatness of expression that recalled every Hollywood hitman. With a little quiver you remember that this thing can go from nought to deadly in zero seconds flat and at less than fifty feet that barely provides you the split second needed to crouch even more firmly behind the chap in front. But gaur are peaceable and the guides know their stuff. As soon as animals are seen one is instructed to slowly subside into a crouch or sitting position transforming you from erect biped threat to strange crouched animal. The gaur flicked a lazy tail at the drowsy flies hovering over him and went his away and we, exchanging delighted grins did the same. We are in Satpura, the only tiger reserve in central India that permits walking safaris as part of a unique new model of wildlife tourism that is being pioneered here, supported by Forsyth’s Lodge that was involved with the training of the park guides to allow them to safely explore tiger country on foot.

The northern boundary of Satpura where Forsyth’s Lodge is located, is formed by the sparkling waters of the Tawa reservoir that reflects the stunning scenery of this quiet and undiscovered treasure of a park that is one of the best places to see sloth bears, leopard, wild dogs, gaur, four-horned antelope and a whole host of exciting birds and rarities like the Malabar giant squirrel anywhere in central or even the rest of India. The barrier of the reservoir means that the park can set a cap on the number of jeeps allowed inside – 12 – and the innovative approach to tourism means that you can spend a whole day afoot in prime tiger country set aside exclusively for walking safaris where sloth bears, wild dog, deer, gaur, boar and even leopard have been spotted and tigers tantalisingly missed; take a boat out for a few hours cruising slowly along the shore spotting not just crocodiles and a host of wonderful birds including peregrine falcons, ospreys, fishing eagles and fish owls but also the mammals; hire a portable 3 – man professional cameraman’s hide and stake out a waterhole; ride out on one of the parks elephants if they are available. It is a matchless programme of jungle adventure and learning that is found nowhere else in India.

Whilst technically of course not in India per se, we love this tiny, eclectic, kingdom so we thought we’d focus briefly on (and remind you about) a holiday to Bhutan.

Located just below Tibet and encircled by the towering Himalayas, Bhutan is mountainous with elevations ranging from an almost-tropical 100m to a chilly 7554m on the Tibetan border. Sparsely populated with just over 700,000 inhabitants, Bhutan has a sensitive, evocative soul as the only surviving Buddhist kingdom in the Himalayan region. Dzongs, or pretty fortress-like monasteries, dot the countryside while the people’s faith permeates all aspects of secular life.

Bhutan - Young Monk At Paro Dzong

The kingdom’s environment is pristine with a variety of habitats from jungles and rugged hills to rhododendron forests and sweeping valleys. 90% of the population are hill farmers who live in villages and, until the 1960’s, the fabled Land of the Thunder Dragon was unknown to tourists. In 1972, the King decided to open and modernise the country by developing industry and agriculture but the Government of Bhutan still measures its nation’s well being by not only Gross National Product but also by Gross National Happiness – an official policy passed by parliament!

Bhutanese Prayer Flags

There’s something for everyone on a holiday to Bhutan. One can simply relax and stroll around dzongs, stupas and museums or take more strenuous hikes with higher ascents and more demanding routes. The Bhutanese work hard to maintain their 13 traditional art and crafts which include weaving, wood carving, embroidery, painting, carpentry, masonry, leather working, sculpture, sand and wax casting, smithing (iron, gold and silver), bamboo/cane working and the art of making paper. Visits to the craftsmen and women are therefore a “must”. Then there’s mountain biking, visiting festivals, archery, rafting, kayaking, plenty of interesting flora including the superb rhododendron forests, birding, plenty of other cultural possibilities and so on.

Bhutanese In Traditional Dress

With the advent of Como Hotels and Aman one can stay at extraordinarily comfortable establishments with very good spa facilities and eating the most exquisite cuisine (and having the best guides) or stay at charming 2/3 star Bhutanese government lodges which are more basic. This is perfect to suit a range of requirements for individual clients.

Call us on 0844 504 3926 for more information and to chat about some ideas for an unforgettable and utterly tailor-made holiday to Bhutan.