Camel Treks India – Camel trekking in India is simply the tourist version of an age-old form of travel that allowed people to traverse the endless sands and scrub of the Thar Desert in Western Rajasthan. When you have that much acreage under sand, camels are a handy ride and they are deeply entrenched in the culture of these desolate but surprisngly densely populated regions on the borders of Pakistan. Even today there are extensive stretches of border country where remote oases support tiny hamlets and picturesque sand dunes are the scenes of a constant cat and mouse game between camel-mounted smugglers and camel-mounted border guards!

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Fact is, camels are a fantastic way to get away from the crowds and retreat into the magnificent silence and remote beauty of the deep desert. In the early days of tourism here, Jaislamer was the perfect location for these camel safaris but with the growth of tourist numbers I have looked to get away from the crowds and the packaged epxerience that some operators provide. Half-way between Jaisalmer and Jodhpur is a place called Manvar which is now the location for one of the most wonderful desert experiences in India – a private tented camp in the solitude of the great dunes. You can arrive here by jeep – but for me that is anathema. You may or may not like camels but this is their natural habitat – nothing else will do. And people forget just how alive with life the desert is: nilgai antelope inhabit the strip between the desert and the sown accompanied by graceful little chinkara gazelle; bushy tailed desert foxes streak across and over the dunes in pursuit of the richness of insect and rodent life; desert cats watch patiently over mouse and gerbille holes and an amazing array of birds patrol the skies and live in the scrub lands dependant on water in the farms and the oases that punctuate this landscape. And there is no better way to enjoy this than from camel-back.

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The fully staffed special exclusive mobile camp provides some magical moments – especially at sunset when unexpected surprises can loom out of the darkening landscape. One evening, listening to a group of inspired desert singers as the stars climbed high overhead, we were startled to see a line of camels emerge silently out of the dusk, be-turbaned riders silhouetted in the firelight seemingly for an instant before disappearing over a ridge of sand.

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The tents are large, comfortable with excellent ensuite facilities and the entire arrangement very beautifully managed. And then there is the glory of the night skies in the desert when the stars seem just an arms length away and the Milky Way is a substantial presence. Nothing stirs the silence – except the occasional gurgle of your camels, settled in for the night.

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Camel treks in India

Camel Treks in India come in many guises. The most popular – certainly the image that is conjured up by the phrase – is of brightly turbaned men leading camel trains across scrubby desert interspersed with giant sand dunes with a romantic looking desert castle in the background. This is the classic camel trek or camel safari of Rajasthan which are conducted in the Thar desert beyond Jodhpur and all the way to Jaisalmer and Bikaner where the desert plunges into Pakistan. For all it’s clichéd images, this remains a fantastic experience. There is nothing that can match the camels ability to navigate across these inhospitable lands and open up a magical realm of desert communities, wonderfully colourful nomads, amazing if austere scenery and an unimaginable wealth of wildlife. The Rajasthani’s are a naturally large-hearted and hospitable folk to which qualities they bring tremendous style and panache. Typically an overnight camel safari will camp in the middle of the dunes somewhere with not another tourist in sight and under the glitter of desert skies, you will be treated to superb music and food lit by mashals or flaming torches.

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But camel safaris or treks are available across Rajasthan and can go from just a couple of hours to several days. One of the best places to head out into the country-side is in a remote corner of southern Rajasthan where the landscape – while arid, is broken by jagged, rocky hills which are the haunt of leopards and hyena amongst other wildlife. It is a fantastic place to experience the Rajasthan that is rapidly disappearing under the press of 21^st century development. This is still a place where the seasons dictate the pace of life; where a group of nomads on the move – with their sheep and goats, swaying camels loaded with baggage, straight-backed women clothed in bright swirling clothes and white clad, scarlet turbaned shepherds still evoke a timeless way of life – and it is entirely fitting that it should be explored from atop a camel!

Tiger Safaris in India – The high season for travel in India – especially for wildlife safaris – is traditionally from late October until mid April, with February and March being the peak months in north and central India – and for good reason. The bitter cold of January mornings and evenings has lost its edge and the vegetation is beginning to die back allowing for greater visibility especially in the moist forests dominated by sal trees. But the fact is that each month has something special to offer and my favourite time is undoubtedly the green lush period after the monsoon. As I write this in early October, I am in the middle of travelling slowly through the remoter parts of central India visiting old friends in Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Panna Tiger Reserves and checking out the rash of new properties that have crowded into these beautiful places – of which more later.

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At Jabalpur station I am met by my friend Jehan Bhujwala who – with his wife Katie – owns and runs the lovely Shergarh Camp in Mukki, Kanha. As we twist, turn, rock and roll around and through the potholes that do service for the highway between Jabalpur and Mandla I stare delightedly out of the window at the impossibly beautiful countryside we are driving through. Lush deep green paddy fields crowd against the dark green forested hills of the Maikal Range of the Satpura Mountains. This is a region that is blessed with rich soil and plentiful water. It is drained by the stunningly beautiful Narmada River – the Sacred Virgin – that cleanses even the Ganges of its burden of sins. Against the mosaic of subtle greens the cluster of beautiful red-tiled roofs that mark a village or hamlet add interest and depth to the scenery. The houses here are substantial – built of mud and wood with the elegance and beauty of architecture evolved and honed over centuries to deal with the climate, social conventions, practical requirements and available raw materials. Traditional architecture, in short and it is magnificent. I drive through prosperous villages in Jehan’s open jeep that are spotless, uncontaminated by plastic and the horrors of flat RCC roofs.  In one charming village, half the village high street appears to be occupied by just a handful of dwellings stretching amazing distances on either side of the road, pierced periodically by elegant gateways that lead to large courtyards. As I peer through them I can see that behind the outer wall is a thriving community of inter-connected homes, courtyards, wells, barns, cow-sheds – clearly the dwelling of an entire clan where the high wall screens the women folk from public gaze and allows for complete privacy. It is utterly charming and unique to this region.

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We ford crystal clear streams that are overhung by arjuna and jamun trees and patrolled by dozens of species of dragonflies. Indeed nothing can compare with the sheer richness of colourful insect life at this time. Village ponds, meadows, streams have their air-space densely occupied by dozens of hawkers, darters, darners, ghosts, ditch jewels stacked high in darting squadrons, wings glittering dangerously in the sunlight. Magic!

Rajasthan in Luxury -  There are so many definitions of ‘luxury’ in travel. For me luxury is not the sybaritic interpretation of extreme almost redundant comfort, but the joy of discovering some out of the way treasure that exceeds one’s expectations. For years I had been hearing about the medieval attractions of the Rajasthani town of Bundi. But Rajasthan is so abundantly gifted with beautiful places and charismatic cities that it’s taken me some time get round to Bundi. I finally made it in early October and what a revelation it was! A blue painted town snugged down within it’s medieval walls within a narrow valley dominated by steep but rounded hills which are in turn protected by stone walls snaking across their contours, their sinuous length anchored by impressive looking bastions. But what instantly holds one’s attention and really makes Bundi is the superbly imposing mass of palaces that rise in beautifully symmetric tiers from near the base of the hill that looms over the town. As we walk into the narrow entrance, the palace complex lies almost somnolent in the high Sun of forenoon. There are hardly any tourists here. We are met by a wiry middle-aged man who introduces himself as Mr. Bhatti. He is our guide. And for the next hour and a half he leads us through the various rooms, courtyards, corridors, staircases, audience chambers, bed chambers on a wondrous fairy tale tour. It is beautiful, smaller than the exterior suggests – and empty! Over the centuries Bundi developed a unique and to my eyes extraordinarily graceful school of art. Everywhere we found the walls of the various rooms sumptuously decorated with the most magical paintings most often rendered in subtle shades of blue and green with just hints of other colours adding counter-point to the frame. The detail, the vigour, the observation and the skill and beauty of the artists drew you irresistibly into the world that they were illustrating.

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I didn’t have a chance to wander through the entire walled town of Bundi but I would love to spend a night there climbing to the top of the hill and exploring the fortifications at first light and sunset and also pottering through the various palaces looking for what secret places the slanting light of early morning may unlock.

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There are no large hotels, thankfully, within Bundi. The town and its streets are too narrow for that. There are a couple of charming heritage hotels though my favourite being the Braj Bhushanji Haveli (mansion) owned by a family that has contributed a prime minister and several ministers to the erstwhile princely state. It is the most authentic, retaining all the art and décor of a traditional small Rajasthani mansion. The rooms are generous, beautifully decorated and extremely comfortable. Best of all it is authentic perfectly complementing the town and it’s magnificent castle.

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South India Hampi

Tucked away amongst the ancient folds of the Deccan Plateau, amidst a wild landscape of giant rocks that date from billions of years ago, lies one of the world’s great forgotten cities – Vijaynagar better known today as Hampi. Early one morning, in pre-dawn dark, I am taken by my guide to the top of Matanga Hill. Murthy is a walking encyclopaedia when it comes to the history and archaeology of this magnificent ruined city that governed the last great Hindu empire of medieval India – Vijaynagar. He’s trudged up this hill hundred’s of times but he can barely suppress his excitement, chivvying me up the hill as I beg for a break to dip into the flask of hot tea. “On top, on top. Can’t be late”. We make it in good time. Matanga Hill is the highest point in Hampi and we are here to watch the Sun thunder out of the boulder strewn East to illuminate the splendid city below us with the long slanting rays of early light. This is high drama. And it doesn’t disappoint. For one lingering moment the giant technicolour tower or gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple is caught in a slanting beam of light throwing the rest of the temple and the long bazaar street beyond into deep shadow and then suddenly the city is revealed below in a vast, glorious, tragic panorama. Vast broken structures crowd the plain below us, girded to the north by the sparkling blue waters of the Tungabhadra River. I gaze overcome with awe and a strange sadness at so much tortured, broken magnificence. Once this city ruled an empire that stretched from coast to coast and covered the whole vast expanse of the southern peninsula. It commanded such resources, such wealth and such power that awed Persian and European traders and diplomats – no strangers to great cities judges it to be the greatest in the world.

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For over two days I explored this city on foot and by cycle following my inspirational guide who made the history, the art, the architecture, trade and commerce, religion, society and politics of Vijaynagar come alive in vivid detail often reflected or connected to the building or a particular piece of sculpture that we were examining. Nothing in this amazing place is mediocre. Everything is extraordinary and with so much beauty it is only just that the entire city has been declared a World Heritage Site. The great city was destroyed in a paroxysm of regional rivalry in 1565 but even what remains is worth several days of exploration. Vijaynagar or Hampi as it is now known, remains a quiet backwater. For me that is a major attraction because one still gets a sense of personal discovery as one wanders amongst the treasures here often with just a handful of fellow explorers.

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Hampi can be combined with several fascinating itineraries of southern India – depending on your interests.

Bhutan – Lost Land of the Tiger

Several years ago I happened to be chatting to Dr. Chuck McDougal – one of the world’s great experts on the wild tiger (and my ex-Boss) – about his recently concluded survey of some of Bhutan’s forests on behalf of WWF – Bhutan. One of his most surprising finds was fresh sign of tigers that he found between 8,000 and 10,000 feet. This was fascinating information because where Chuck had found the sign was not atop a pass that tigers might use in crossing between one deep forested valley to another. Rather it was in high country along yak trails. Exactly the sort of country where Gordon Buchanan (the cameraman filming the BBC series on Bhutan’s tigers) found his first sign of tiger at over 10,000 feet in the form of a yak kill. We do know of course that tigers are incredibly adaptable. After all, except for the rarified air, the conditions in these high mountains are no different to the habitat and climatic conditions of the Amur or Siberian tiger. But somehow we have grown accustomed to images of tigers in snow-bound taiga. But here you have what is presumably a small population of the Indian race of tigers living in country that we have become accustomed to thinking of as Snow leopard habitat. Indeed this film makes the point that here is one of the last places left on earth where tigers, snow leopards and leopards share the same habitat. There are other places where the two smaller cats may be found together in the Himalayas – but to find a tiger in this high and inhospitable country begs the question as to what keeps them here? What is their prey? This is not a 100 lb leopard but a 500 lb super predator – the largest cat in the world. No doubt some of the answers will be spun out over the remaining two episodes but to my mind the key is the presence of large herds of yaks – the sort of large prey that tigers need. The film begins in the steaming lowlands of Bhutan – in the Royal Manas  National Park just across the river from Manas Tiger and Biosphere Reserve in the Indian state of Assam.

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It is a stunningly beautiful park – especially along the river and the wealth of wildlife of all descriptions that the film reveals make it an absolute joy to visit. Our trips to Manas are never less than 4 nights and now with the possibility of continuing up into highlands of Bhutan through the park, opens up all sorts of exciting possibilities. I can just imagine a ‘tiger trail’ following reports of tigers from the lowlands to the high pastures beneath the snows. Only Bhutan – with its reverence for all life, its tiny population in a relatively large area, its huge forests – could pull off such a trick.

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Lost Land of the Tiger will be broadcast on BBC One at 21.00BST on Wednesday 22nd and Thursday 23rd September.

Luxury Holidays in Kerala . The common perception of a luxury Kerala holiday is balmy backwaters, boutique resorts, palm-fringed beaches. Of course Kerala has these – and in superlative abundance.

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So much so that several blogs can and probably will be devoted to Kerala backwaters and beaches! What a lot of people don’t know is that Kerala is an absolute paradise for nature lovers, walkers, birders, cyclists and kayakers. The birding and wildlife is absolutely outstanding. In the lowlands a famous bird sanctuary is the Salim Ali Sanctuary,Thattekkadu. This is one the last extensive patch of lowland rain forest left in Kerala and is a haven for over 300 species of birds including such rarities as the Ceylon Frogmouth, Peninsular race of the Jungle Owlet, Mountain hawk-eagle, Jerdon’s Baza and much more. A charming and comfortable tented camp called Hornbill is situated just opposite the sanctuary across the Periyar River. They keep kayaks at camp and that is a thoroughly enjoyable way of exploring this lush landscape of rain forest and emerald paddy fields with the high ranges of the Western Ghats in the background. As you venture into these you are offered a wonderful choice of converted homes, plantation bungalows and purpose built resorts many tucked away in quiet, remote valleys or ridge commanding magnificent views.

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One of our favourites is a place called Paradisa Resort owned by Simon Paulose. From the cottages – restored heritage wooden Kerala homes – and the dining room you look out over a superb mountain landscape of forest, tea and coffee plantations and spice gardens. Even the cardamom and coffee estates which require the shade of rainforest giants, are a haven for birders and the local walking trails where you may be guided by a tribal guide can reveal a colourful wealth of birds, butterflies, dragonflies and plants. Back at Paradisa you can cool off from the mid-day heat in the charming swimming pool designed in the shape of Simon’s wife’s foot (or so the story goes!) or work off cricks and stiffness with an Ayurvedic massage. Paradisa also serves superb food – traditional Kerala specialities and they also organise classes for this interested in learning about the unique flavours of Kerala cooking, that distinguish it from other south Indian cuisines.

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Not far from Paradisa is one of India’s great tiger reserves – Periyar – with its herds of wild elephants and immense habitat diversity that supports the greatest variety of birds, insects, reptiles and probably mammals of any park in south India. For the intrepid walker and wildlife enthusiast the real joy of Periyar is in the buffer forests where you can experience an absolutely amazing rain-forest trek – but that is for another blog!

Snow Leopard Trek

Our snow leopard trek is a unique journey in quest of one of the most elusive and iconic of the Big Cats. Guided by experts and contributing directly to the Snow Leopard Conservancy, this exclusive trek gives one a unique insight into the ecology of these exquisite and beautiful creatures in the high Himalayas.

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Snow Leopards are rarely seen, but this trek is not a random one. Although their low numbers and reclusive nature, coupled with the inhospitable nature of their habitat can make the possibility of actually finding a snow leopard the most forlorn of forlorn hopes, our treks narrow the chances considerably. The treks take place at the end of the winter or early spring when the snow is at it’s deepest. The Snow Leopard is tied to its prey, and in vast and inhospitable country the prey is concentrated in the relatively few hospitable areas. By this time of year forage is scarce and the animals descend to the valley floors in search of graze and open ground. This narrows and focuses the search. Our treks concentrate on one such area in the Hemis National Park in Ladakh, south of the River Indus. This is an area that has been the location for snow leopard research and filming in the past. The bonus, and for many the real reward, is the exploration of the natural and human landscape of snow leopard country. The mountains are rugged but indescribably beautiful, as streams and rivers that bring the area to vivid life water the valleys that seam this barren but colourful vastness.

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The snow leopard does not inhabit this mountain fastness alone. It sits atop a complex eco-system and shares it’s habitat with a number of other fascinating creatures like Wolf, wild dog, Blue Sheep, Urial and Himalayan marmots while the skies are patrolled by such charismatic species like the golden eagle and bearded vultures.

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This is one of our most outstanding and inspirational journeys, as you trek in one of the most beautiful regions of the Himalayas and meet and interact the fiendly people who inhabit this harsh mountain area.

Tiger Safaris and Goa

Possibly the best area to see tigers anywhere is the clutch of reserves that span the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh (and parts of neighbouring Maharashtra) that occupies the rugged heart of the subcontinent. With relatively low population densities and the largest absolute area of forest, this region – about the size of France – supports 8 tiger reserves of the total 30 that exist across the entire country. The habitats range from moist to dry deciduous jungles and each of the reserves offers a unique experience due to the differing scenery, habitat, surrounding cultural and historic attractions. Some of the reserves like Satpura also offer a unique model of tourism with a greater emphasis on walking safaris and enjoyment of the entire eco-system that the tiger occupies rather than just a tiger centric experience. While it is possible to visit all the parks of this region in one trip, we strongly advise limiting the number of parks to a maximum of 3 with at least four nights spent in each. If you are into walking and enjoying wildlife in a quiet undisturbed manner then Satpura should be part of any mix of parks where Forsyth’s Lodge offers very comfortable accommodation, excellent guiding and a unique wilderness experience. But as anyone who has a bit of experience knows, safaris can be hard work. By the end of two and a half weeks the lodge swimming pools simply don’t cut it for relaxation and thoughts can turn to vegetating by a beach somewhere.

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Goa lends itself perfectly to this role.  Despite the growth in charters this traffic remains pretty localised and huge swathes of coastal Goa remain quiet and charming, with a wonderful selection of beautifully restored boutique resorts and getaways. Some of them are so jealous of their seclusion that they won’t even tell you where they are located until you actually pay for the booking! The sea in Goa is always warm, the food is a delicious mix of Indian and Portuguese and because of it’s Portuguese association the state is exempt many of the excise and customs duties on alcohol that bind the rest of India. You guessed it – cheap and good booze. Which doesn’t mean that Sun, Sea and booze is the sum of Goa’s attractions. The colonial past has left a huge number of beautiful buildings, charming villas and distinctive villages; thriving markets offer some wonderful shopping and the wildlife – particularly the birds – are nothing short of spectacular. People forget that backing the Goa coast is a high range of mountains – the Sahyadris of the Western Ghats which are clothed in wet and rain forest teeming with a colourful array of birds and other wildlife. A couple of lovely camps and lodges allow you access to these treasures and the opportunity to experience the contrast and diversity of Goa. Hmmm, trying to think of a good title for a safari and Goa holiday – Tigers & Vindaloo? Perhaps not…

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Himalayan Holidays – Ladakh – I’ve been talking about Himalayas Holidays on my previous posts – but mainly about the Eastern Himalayas. It’s easy to forget when talking about this or that peak that this range of mountains stretches for over 1500 miles from Afghanistan to the Burmese border. The terrain varies and nothing could be more different to the lush extravagance of the Eastern stretch of these mountains than the arid remoteness of Ladakh – the land of passes, Little Tibet – where the borders of three contending powers – India, China and Pakistan – collide in a wilderness of glaciers and forbidding peaks. Having grown up in the Garhwal Himalaya – source of the Ganges – a forested, bountiful and gentler (relatively) stretch of mountain country, I was at first unsettled and then utterly seduced by the sere, austere grandeur of these arid heights. Some descriptions thoughtlessly label it a ‘moonscape’. I find that ridiculous – for this is a landscape rich in colour and life. As you trudge up an endless valley the skies – a deep, impossible blue – are patrolled by Golden Eagles and bearded vultures. High on the slopes you may spot ibex or blue sheep and as you camp at night it is prudent to keep the packhorses tethered for wolves sing to the Moon.

Round a corner and the drab hues of sand and stone are startlingly counterpoised by the vivid green of a field of young barley tended by a smiling family whose gentle good humour belies their stone-hard physicality. Villages climb away into the hill-sides, white-washed and red-trimmed mud houses picturesquely framed by apricot and willow. If you are lucky – as many of our guests are – you will be invited by the lady of the house into her vast kitchen and there, amidst gleaming copper and brass, be invited to partake of cool Chhang or rice beer or hot butter tea – more a nourishing soup than the genteel beverage of England.

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Ladakh is a land of pastel hues and flaming sunsets. Here you still find the old untouched Buddhism of Tibet. Ancient monasteries soar, tier upon tier, up the mountainside and an age-old way of life is sustained by the piety of a free and unconstrained people. The Indus, rising in high Tibet, flows through Ladakh nourishing the central valley where Leh, the capital, is situated. This is a fascinating land by any measure – landscape, wildlife, history, culture, religion, geo-politics. If you’ve watched the BBC snow leopard documentaries filmed by Hugh Miles – they were shot here using the same groups of researchers who support our snow leopard treks. The money from our trips going directly into the villages – an incentive to protect snow leopards rather than to kill them. When I first went to Ladakah in 1978 this was still a frontier territory. Now you can choose your level of comfort – from the Shakti properties which partner with Ladakhi families to convert homes into luxury home-stays to more basic but authentic Ladakhi-owned properties. But where you stay is inconsequential when compared with what you see.