If staying at one of the colonial houses in Himalayas and looking out at the impossible bright blue sky or gazing at the snow capped mountains at a distance with a cup of tea entices you, include a stay at Rokeby Manor that was built in 1840 by Captain G.N. Cauthy which is one of the landmarks of Landou

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The house and two acre estate are situated slightly above and to the east of St. Paul’s Church and the old cantonment parade ground, which is now Char Dukan. Like many houses in Mussoorie, its name is taken from the writings of Sir Walter Scott, whose book-length poem describes heroic battles near the original Rokeby Castle in England. Several years after it was built, the house came into the possession of Lt. Col. Reilly, who also owned Ralston, another residence in Mussoorie. In 1878, Reilly mortgaged both properties for Rs. 25,000 to Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, a controversial adventurer and entrepreneur, who was the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s classic story, “The Man Who Would Be King”.  Since then Rokeby exchanged hand and was used as a guest house throughout the rest of the 20th century. Today, Rokeby has been carefully restored to its original glory. This heritage building is resplendent with character in its elaborate brick arches and niches, intricate stone walls, real wood doors and beams, and cosy replaces. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, the traditions of bygone years – where colonial o cers, renegade soldiers of fortune and pious miss saibs lived under one roof–can still be felt. An air of mystery beckons visitors.

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Each room in Rokeby Manor has its own unique character, having been restored to its original 19th century décor. Rooms are located throughout the Manor between the main house and the tea garden. Their luxurious and charming suite has been designed in a Victorian style with a cozy fireplace. While staying at these colonial houses in Himalayas, one can enjoy idyllic views of the valley and the tea garden from your own private balcony . Rooms have been decorated in quaint English country style with traditional wooden beams and inviting nooks and corners. These are the only rooms located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and have breathtaking views of the valley.

Emily’s , a homely dining room with scenic surroundings overlooking the valley. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu has a mouthwatering selection of Indian and Continental dishes and is open from 06:30 am till midnight. Dining on the terrace, under a moonlit sky, is an ideal for a romantic dinner or enjoy a hot cuppa accompanied by cake in the freshness of the Tea Garden.

While staying at these colonial houses in Himalayas . those who’d like to wander off the beaten track and experience the beauty of nature, trails or scenic drives can be arranged from the property. Walk the forest trail to the top of the Witches Hills or try the longer Flag Hill where beautiful rhondondendron is in full bloom and if you are lucky the guide will point out a barking deer.  I would also recommend visiting Pepperpot and Pepperpot Cave, a mountain so named because the squareness of its top resembles a pepperpot or shaker. Located to the east of Mussoorie, it is a leisurely day hike of around 8 kms. A nice place to see spectacular views of the surrounding hills, valleys and the distant snows. Also, a good area to meet up with some of the local fauna and birds. Don’t leave without visiting Sanji, the corn village, less than 2 hours away. Sanji is like nothing you have seen before with bright orange corn cobs handing to dry in bunches from each ancient house and vast fields of mustard swaying gently in the wind.

A Bhutan holiday is quite an extraordinary experience. Bhutan truly is one of the Earth’s blessed Acres. It’s a small country with a very low population density – itself a unique gift in over-populated south Asia. The landscape – straddling the Eastern Himalayas from the foothills to the spine – is some of the most beautiful on Earth and further embellished by a particularly harmonious architecture, essentially Tibetan in origin but feeling just right for these densely forested mountains as well. And the forests are extensive. By law Bhutan must have a minimum of 65% of land area under forest. At the present more than 75% of the country is under a range of different types of forests – from sub-tropical moist deciduous to montane evergreen, birch and alpine meadow. And the forests are absolutely bursting with life. The Eastern Himalayas are a world bio-diversity hotspot and with the highest percentage of land under forest, Bhutan is the very epicentre of this coffer of biological riches. Walk a trail through a forest of giant hemlocks and one gapes in amazement at just how much life a single tree can support – Spanish, moss, ferns, fungi, rainbow flocks of birds in the branches. I reckon you could spend a fair few days just identifying and counting up what a single tree supports!

But here’s the thing – you could be doing this while threading your way along a tree shadowed path to a remote little monastery made sacred with the hum of Buddhist prayer; draped in bright strings of flags in the colours representing the five elements recognised by Buddhists and Hindus as the basis of the cosmos.

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In the modern age we increasingly make the distinction between natural and man-made worlds. And by extension we label our holidays as nature safaris or cultural tours. But with a Bhutan holiday these distinctions are blurred to the point of non-existence – nature and humans live in harmony and so any Bhutan holiday is automatically an experience of nature and human culture. Something that the Bhutanese themselves are deeply proud of.

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Do you have to live in yak hair tents in the pastures of high altitude nomads to experience Bhutan? Not exactly – although that option is very much available! In recent years Bhutan has seen the arrival of some wonderful small hotels like the Uma Paro and the Amankora hotels in Paro, Punakha and Bumthang along with some excellent Bhutanese five star options like the luxurious but ethnic Zhivaling in Paro. Ideally, you can mix and match – using normal Bhutanese accommodations for most of the trip with a few days in the lap of luxury.

Located in the North East of the Indian sub continent, the Buddhist Kingdom of Sikkim shares borders with Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal and is nestled in the heart of India’s Eastern Himalayan range. Sikkim contains an environmental legacy of untouched but incredibly stunning and uniquely diverse landscapes and a cultural mosaic under the looming presence of the world’s third highest mountain, Kanchenjunga.

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Himalayan walking is at the heart of this experience, enabling you to enjoy the villages and rural life in remote mountain regions. Accompanied by local porters and guides, you step out of the modern world, walking between villages that are remote, and staying in traditional village houses, which a local company have spruced up to provide proper comfort without compromising their authenticity.  We will arrange visits to local schools, monasteries and markets to enable you to get a full understanding of the culture of each region, its people, religion and customs. Providing authentic experiences of local life, the walks are the perfect antidote to the frenetic world that most of us live in.

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These usually are three to four day walks. On your first day you will be met by your private guide and driven approximately 5 hours to your house in Sandyang Lee Village near Rinchenpong. The Sangdyang Lee House is beautifully located and offers fantastic views of the Kanchenjunga massif. In the early evening, your guide will give you an introductory briefing about Himalayan walking and your tour after which you will be invited to enjoy an evening around the fire with drinks and a delicious dinner under the stars.

The next day your Himalayan walking begins with a gentle climb along a lush jungle trail, by isolated houses and quaint hamlets along the way. You will find that the local people are ever smiling and very friendly. Pass by the Rangeet River in a lovely valley and continue onto the Magi Darra from where you can enjoy stunning views of the entire valley below. Further ahead is Poison Lake, which also offers fantastic Himalayan views. Close by is the newly constructed Gurung monastery which is also worth a visit. This afternoon we have a delicious picnic lunch arranged for you. On the way back you will have a chance to visit a traditional house that belongs to the Lepchas, who are the aboriginal people of Sikkim.

Awake at dawn the following day to walk up a short distance above the house to watch the sun come up. The sight of the sun rising through the fluttering prayer flags with Kanchenjunga in the background is truly unforgettable.  From here continue on to Rinchenpong Monastery to participate in the early morning prayers which the monks conduct daily. The prayers and chanting are truly fascinating and spiritually uplifting. Drive back to the house for breakfast. Later today you will head to Hee Village to our next house. The route runs along a ridge from where you will be able to get some amazing views. On the way you will pass through the charming village of Bhasmay.

Break the journey and take in the beauty of this region while you enjoy a delicious picnic lunch at a lovely spot. About one and a half hours later you will reach Hee.

After breakfast, the owner of the village house will show you around his village. This is fabulous opportunity to meet and interact with the local people. Continue uphill, through a wildlife sanctuary, to the enchanted lakes- a series of three beautiful lakes one after the on the mountain side. After a picnic lunch, walk along a flat path to a local cave, which the locals consider to be a home for holy spirits.  Radhu Kandu village is our next destination where you will arrive mid afternoon. The rest of the day is at leisure to enjoy as you desire.

The house at Radhu Kandu is the most special of the three. It is a charming traditional Sikkimese house with two bedrooms and outside toilets and showers. The owner family is lovely and quite entertaining to spend time with. The location is sublime and there is nothing better than having tea in the sit out room which has 270° views of the area. After breakfast, you will continue your Himalayan walking back down to the road head from where you will be driven for approximately 5 hours to Bagdogra where you can board a flight to Delhi.

If you saw the  film, The Darjeeling Ltd. and thought you might like to recreate the adventure, then plan a trip to Glenburn! It was whilst staying on this, the most magical of tea estates, that Anderson conceived the idea for the film. Quite frankly, he could hardly have been anything but inspired.

Set an hour or so from Darjeeling town, the Glenburn Tea Estate is a superb destination for luxury adventure holidays to India as it clings to the foothills of the Himalayas, bordering the kingdom of Sikkim. Kanchenjunga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain, dominates the horizon and two rivers, the Rangeet and the Rung Dung, entwine themselves as they run through valleys. Overlooking it all is the Burra Bungalow, Glenburn’s boutique hotel and former home of the estate manager. The surroundings are spectacular and as you are away from the town, you will never be crowded by other people. The Burra Bungalow has only four rooms and therefore it simply doesn’t feel like a hotel. You are a guest and the attention to details of the staff is second to none. Freshly prepared picnics, afternoon tea and fresh juice appear from nowhere across the estate whether you are trekking the 2 hours down to the river or merely mooching in the garden. The food, ingredients for which are grown organically on the estate wherever possible. The homemade breads and chocolate brownies slip down a treat.

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The Estate also has a lodge and campsite that offers accommodation for two families, with its two spacious rooms each with an attached bathroom. Both rooms offer spectacular views of the forest, river and Sikkim on the opposite bank. A large verandah is a lovely place to sit and relax on at any time of the day. Kerosene lanterns are used to light up the Lodge at night and dinner is served according to each guest’s preference – either as a candle-lit meal down by the river, or on the Lodge verandah. Barbeques can also be organized, and a bonfire is always a popular option. Awake the next morning with a cup of tea or coffee served to you in bed, to watch the sunrise, and then wander along the river to catch a glimpse of some of the birds that inhabit the area. Cormorants, wild geese and hornbills are just a few of the birds you are likely to see. Return to the campsite for a hot breakfast and perhaps another refreshing dip in the river, before setting off on the day’s activities. It’s a great place if you are on a luxury adventure holiday  to India as you can do hiking, rafting and fishing. This is definitely a popular excursion, and rafting trips of varying difficulty can be organized to suit everyone. When the water level is high enough, rafting trips start at The Glenburn Campsite, from the River Rungeet, and join up with the River Teesta further downstream.  The trip can also be combined with a hike across the Manjitar Suspension Bridge, a short drive to Malli and then a raft trip down the River Teesta. You can also start the rafting from the picturesque Triveni which you would have looked down upon from the Viewpoint picnic spot on your way here from the airport. This is about an hour’s drive from Glenburn. The rapids along both the rivers are graded between II and IV, and certain sections are only open to swimmers. We use well-trained guides at all times and safety is of the utmost importance to us.

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Hikes can be arranged and adjusted to suit each guest. All the walking is downhill. The duration of the walk can range from 1.5 hours to 4 hours, and the level of difficulty can range from moderate to tough, depending on the route one takes. The forests contain a rich diversity of birds, butterflies, flora and plant life, as well as animals typical to this habitat. Refreshments will be provided along the way, and a jeep is never far away, should you feel tired and wish to drive down the rest of the way. Guests would really love these scenic walks while on a luxury adventure holiday to India as they are professionally arranged using friendly staff who have excellent local knowledge.

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If you enjoy fishing, a fantastic experience on the river Rangeet can be arranged by Glenburn. The fishing season at Glenburn starts in early October and runs through until about March. A typical catch can range from a Rainbow Trout, Brown Trout, Golden Mahseer, Snow Trout, Goonch or a Carp.  What a great luxury adventure holiday to India indeed !

Everyone wants to get away from their hectic life to a place where they can relax and see places they have heard before. I recently came across one such location off the beaten track. Nandadevi is an exclusive heritage estate – an invitation for people with a love of the Himalayas and nature. Guests may step back in time and enjoy their Himalayan Holidays in simplicity coupled by style and sophistication.

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Between 1805 and 1947, the British ruled Kumaon and established their administrative capital in Almora. With a keen eye for the best spots and a great sense of style and good taste, the British discovered Binsar, with its unparalleled natural beauty and sweeping views. Set at 7500 ft in the heart of Binsar Sanctuary, the NandaDevi property was the residence of a succession of District Magistrates from 1856 to 1945, after which it passed into the hands of the Shah family of Almora who owned a store providing groceries and wines to the British. Against a 700 rupee wine bill, Mr Van Renen handed over the property to Shyam Lal Shah who in turn sold it to Vivek Datta, a philosopher turned gentleman farmer from an aristocratic Delhi family, and his Belgian musicologist wife Marie in 1956, exactly a hundred years after it was built. It provides a unique Himalayan holidays experience, where the awe inspiring peaks in an unbroken chain of 500 kms can be contemplated up close. The wild beauty of virgin Himalayan oak and rhododendron forests surrounding the estate urge you to connect with nature, explore its secrets, and return to time and again.

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Nandadevi Estate is located in the core area of Binsar Sanctuary, which is under the management of Corbett National Park. There are only 5 properties in the higher reaches of Binsar Sanctuary, and they are all separated by kilometres of thick forest. The property, 20 acres of land, comprises of terraced fields and a 155 years old heritage bungalow – originally built by a British administrator in 1854. What makes the Nandadevi Estate one of the most beautiful places in the world, is not only its views but the harmonious way in which the property is naturally set with its own five hills, each with exquisite views, and its terraced fields which once were a thriving farm and apple orchard, and are gradually being restored to their original state a few acres at a time. All efforts have been made so that guests have the unique experience of stepping back in time and enjoying the simplicity coupled by the sophistication. The entire estate is at the disposal of the guests along with the estate staff making it a relaxing Himalayan holiday.

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The Estate has two Bungalows – The Goralkot Bungalow, built in the mid nineteenth century, is steeped in history and atmosphere and has been restored in a typical colonial style with wide verandahs, bay windows, and high ceilinged rooms with plenty of light and space. The whole structure is made of stone and wood. The rooms with four poster beds and their arched wooden ceiling and bay windows are furnished with priceless antiques from the Raj.  The Writer’s cottage was originally a barn located in the middle of the apple orchards and farm and was converted into a cottage in the mid 1980’s. An Italian writer called Tiziano Terzani, an icon in Europe as much for his writing as for his philosophy, stayed in the cottage for five years and wrote his most celebrated book there. The cottage is double storeyed and has a wraparound verandah from which views of Nandadevi, framed between two hills, views of Panchachuli and the Nepal Himalayas are visible. Done in pinewood and stone, the cottage has picture windows in every room and sunlight throughout the day.  Built around the concept of light and space, each room, including the bathrooms, have breath-taking views making it a perfect retreat for a Himalayan holiday.

They have recently revived the farm and four acres of land have been planted with vegetables and crops slowly we will bring the property back to its former days when there used to be 4000 fruit trees and substantial agriculture. The property also has a cowshed housing five milk cows, a bull, two riding horses, a few sheep, and chickens. Guests can order their meal fresh from the vegetable garden or dairy and watch the cows being milked. The farm, providing fresh dairy and poultry products and a range of local and exotic vegetables and fruit, ensures guests will enjoy Indian and Continental cuisine cooked to their taste and requirements in the bungalow kitchens.

They have a range of activities like hikes and bird watching in the Sanctuary, camping, horse riding, and mountain biking and day treks inside the Sanctuary as well as visits to nearby places of interest. However, the breath-taking surroundings and the luxuries of old world comforts and home grown, home cooked food will make it hard for guests to move out. Having said that I am sure guests who decide to go on Himalayan holidays want to explore the countryside and for those walks in Binsar Sanctuary ranging from easy strolls to day treks with picnic lunches can be arranged.  For guests who love riding, Horse riding along the old British horse trails in the Sanctuary can be organised. If you want to taste a bit of culture excursions to Almora to visit the Nanda Devi temple, the Old Bazaar and the main production unit of Panchachuli Women Weavers can be arranged.

It’s a unique concept and a one of a kind Himalayan holidays experience.

Ask anyone their favourite beach destination in India and Goa is still the winner. Goa has seriously moved on.  Forget the happy-clappy scene – now Kate Moss, Mick Jagger and Daniel Craig are all going. All the kaftan-wearing, champagne-sipping thirty something’s are renting stylish, funky houses that equal the places they love in Ibiza and Morocco.

Talk about luxury holiday homes in India and tucked away at the end of a quiet lane, off the bustling main road to Calangute, is Aashyana.  This royally appointed jewel in the crown nestles on the prettiest stretch of Candolim beach, in a lush tropical garden exuding tranquillity. It’s a lovely, intimate little hotel created by a local entrepreneur named Ajai Lakhanpal.  The choice is yours to be pampered in the elegant luxury holiday home, the fully staffed 5 bedroom villa or reside in style at one or more of the three self-contained two bedroom cottages – Casinhas – each complete with an individual, private garden.

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A sweeping drive leads you to the entrance villa, a stunning two-storey, five-bedroom luxury holiday home. The spacious veranda spans the entire ground floor, with built-in seating areas in the traditional Goan-Portuguese style. Inside, the contemporary décor offsets select pieces of furniture from the owner’s collection. The luxurious use of materials in the architect designed rooms includes honey-coloured Rajasthani stone, charcoal grey granite and subtle mosaics. Both in the interior and in the external spaces, the essence of Aashyana Lakhanpal is conveyed through an emphasis on tranquillity.

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There are three Aashyana Casinhas – Leo, Libra and Capricorn, clustered within the grounds of the main villa and are reached through their independent, wrought-iron gate leading to a delightful courtyard. The whitewashed casinhas are stylish and welcoming, using neutral décor and local features like terracotta-tiled roofs, stone floors and traditional built-in seating. This décor contrasts and highlights the owner’s private art collection. Whichever you choose, this gorgeous holiday home in India awaits you in a breath-taking setting, within a few paces of Candolim’s sun kissed beach.  The shadowy garden, with its coconut groves, lime, cashew and ‘ guava trees, contains a dragonfly-spangled , swimming pool, a gate to Candolim beach,  also a pavilion from which to watch Goa’s stupendous oceanic sunsets.

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Ashyana’s spacious dining area is complemented by an optional garden dining facility for al fresco lunches or candle lit dinners under the stars – unforgettable luxury. The kitchen garden supplies a variety of organic herbs and vegetables and you can also plan an exciting fresh seafood menu with our chef Jagat Singh who recipes are a treat in itself.

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There is an informal gallery where guests may ponder a unique collection of modern Indian art. Lakhanpal, before he turned his home into a hotel, threw it open to any young painters requiring free board and lodging, and in return asked only that each give him a picture. They’re hanging there today, among the most interesting a portrait of Lakhanpal himself by Goa’s most famous son, Mario Miranda. This luxury holiday home comes along with armies of staff on-site masseurs and gourmet chefs -  oh, and the decor is pretty hot, too.  The back of Aashyana Lakhanpal opens up, LA-style, onto a lush garden, the kind of green paradise we all want to find in the hippie idyll.

A shaded path leads up to a classical porch and wide veranda which overlooks an inviting, mosaic tiled 20 meter private pool set to the right of the villa. Both internally and externally the Villa has been thoughtfully provided with easy access to all facilities for wheelchairs if needed. Whether relaxing in the air conditioned luxury of the interior or sunbathing in the sumptuous gardens around the pool, let your senses be seduced by the Aashyana. Delicadeza, a charming Portuguese term, describes a specific sense of style, courtesy and gracious living. I am convinced that your stay at this luxury home in India will be permeated with this sense of delicadeza.

In 2004 the founders of Shakti saw that an increasing number of sophisticated travellers were seeking something beyond five-star luxury and great monuments – something simpler, which would take them off the well-trodden paths and closer to India’s landscape, her people and their living cultures. In response they developed the village walks in Kumaon, Sikkim and  very recently in Ladakh a perfect answer for tourists keen on walking holidays in Himalayas.

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One of the perks of working for a tour operator is the opportunity to visit such off the beaten track locations and to experience great products designed by the gurus of travel. In 2007 I had the pleasure of going on a 4 day village walk through the Kumaon hills in the Western Himalayan, a region unknown to people outside of India. Shakti, who fell in love with the region is extremely grateful for this as they were able to pioneer the village walks concept in an unspoilt part of India. The walks have been carefully designed for travellers who are planning walking holidays in Himalayas and would prefer not to compromise on their creature comforts yet see places off the beaten track. You follow the villagers’ own ancient footpaths, which meander among pine forests and terraced fields of rice and wheat.

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The journey from Delhi to Kathgodam was adventurous but interesting. I was met by my guide at Kathgodam and was driven to Almora from where the walks begin. On arrival a lovely Kumauni family greeted me to my first village house. Shakti’s Kumaon village houses have been renovated to make them cosy and comfortable, yet to keep their simple charm and authenticity of living in a Himalayan village house. The friendly families promise a comfortable stay and a delicious meal during your stay. The bathrooms are outside (not en-suite) with western toilets and the adjoining shower rooms have slate tiles and showers are taken (in local tradition) using brass buckets and mugs filled with hot water that our staff have boiled for you.

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Over the course of four days we walked through pretty villages, stretches of pine forest, descended into scenic valleys, explored several architectural marvels from the 8^th – 12^th centuries dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at the villages of Alai and Kana before reaching Jwalabanj. The village women’s saris are a flash of vivid colour as they go about their daily tasks – just as they have done for centuries. The children stare, shy at first sight of rare strangers in their world – wreathed in smiles as they run towards you with cries of ‘Namaste!’.  If you feel that you have walked enough by the time you have reached Jwalabanj your itinerary is completely private and flexible and if you wanted to, you could spend your afternoon sitting outside reading a good book and admiring the scenery. As night falls, the village men prepare a delicious, home-cooked meal over the wood fire and, later, you sit in the moonlight, the stillness broken only by the sound of a dog barking in a distant valley.

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The true icing on the cake is your stay at 360 Leti which is a luxury camp set in a world class location and facility. You can combine it with the village walks as I did. After the final night in Jwalabanj Village House, you can be driven 4 hrs to the road head, and walk 1.5 hours to the camp. This amazing property has four cottages with teak floors – all en-suite and with private sit outs and glorious views.  Aesthetically designed to absorb the surroundings the communal living/dining area have glass walls, enabling maximum enjoyment of the views around. October – March is great for walking holidays in Himalayas as it offers the best views. The wild cherry trees come into blossom in Oct/Nov and then Dec/Jan can become cold at night, however, a time when the mountain views can be at their best.

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Some of my experience of Leti is the early mornings that cast a pink glow over the snow-covered peaks; Energised by the crystalline air, you may already be out walking with your guide, through the ancient rhododendron forests. Or you may choose to linger over a long, slow breakfast. As the sun rises higher, the achingly pure light casts sharply defined shadows. Eagles soar and swoop on the rising thermals. There’s no sound, other than the breeze and an occasional snatch of birdsong. Mesmerised by the beauty, you may simply sit and stare. Or you might pack fishing gear and a picnic lunch and hike down to the river at the base of the valley. There are long walks, dipping into the glacial waters if you can hack it, and guides with informed chat about everything from local micro-societies to fungi facts.  In the evening you gather around the lodge fireplace, before an astonishingly delicious dinner cooked by their exquisite Tibetan chef, served by candle light.

I strongly believe that one cannot have rewards without effort and more so on walking holidays in Himalayas. The location is superlative. The effort to arrive enhances the experience and the hospitality is overwhelming. It’s hard to put into words the experience you would have but I am certain that it’s a place that one hopes everyone would have the good fortune to visit once in their lifetime.

Luxury holidays to India

Luxury,  as easy as it sounds is in fact extremely difficult when you actually try to define it.  During my visit to Rajasthan in July 2009, I came across the Aman Resorts, a chain of luxury resorts scattered not far away from each other in the colourful state of Rajasthan.  Since 1988 when the flagship Amanpuri opened in Phuket, Aman has established three resorts in India redefining luxury holidays to India.

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It’s difficult to express the guests experience at Aman as it ticks all the boxes. It offers an intimate and discreet experience while providing the highest level of service. Each resort and setting is unique, but certain elements characterise all of them — a beautiful natural location, outstanding facilities, exceptional service and a small number of rooms to ensure exclusivity and privacy.  From the garden estate Amanbagh set in the foothills of the Aravallis built in a haveli style to the wilderness camp Aman I Khas that sits on a gentle slope on the fringes of Ranthambore National Park against a backdrop of hills each leaves an impression, an indelible mark. Their newest addition is Aman Delhi just minutes from the grandeur of Rashtrapati Bhavan and the peaceful Lodhi gardens. It completes the triangle for someone in search of luxury holidays to India. The design of the resort is contemporary, complemented with Indian touches such as hand-made rugs and jaali screens. Spacious suites afford guests the opportunity to relax in enveloping comfort.

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Aman excursions are a class apart. I was particularly impressed by their walks that can be combined with culture trails.  At Aman Bagh the resort can arrange day trips to the Pink city of Jaipur and walks to the surrounding countryside.  The experience at Aman I Khas is focused on wildlife viewing. Having said that they also arrange visits to the Old City and Khandar Fort which is one of Rajasthan dramatic ruins. Not very far from the resort is the Banas River, an ideal spot for a picnic style lunch. The pools are fringed by water grass and decorated with lilies, creating an excellent feeding ground for wading birds and other water fowl. Guests can enjoy a half-day excursion to this birder’s paradise, strolling the banks of the river with a naturalist. At Aman Delhi they arrange off the beaten track tours to the Moghul city of Shahajanabad or to several private galleries that regularly host art exhibitions of paintings, pottery, sculptures, photographic art and prints by many up-and-coming artists.

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The Spa at Aman Resorts is a class apart. It provides a refined and peaceful environment in which to relax. Using organic Aman products created from pure and proactive ingredients, traditional treatments as well as henna art, local specialities are on offer.

Tiger Safaris in India – The high season for travel in India – especially for wildlife safaris – is traditionally from late October until mid April, with February and March being the peak months in north and central India – and for good reason. The bitter cold of January mornings and evenings has lost its edge and the vegetation is beginning to die back allowing for greater visibility especially in the moist forests dominated by sal trees. But the fact is that each month has something special to offer and my favourite time is undoubtedly the green lush period after the monsoon. As I write this in early October, I am in the middle of travelling slowly through the remoter parts of central India visiting old friends in Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Panna Tiger Reserves and checking out the rash of new properties that have crowded into these beautiful places – of which more later.

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At Jabalpur station I am met by my friend Jehan Bhujwala who – with his wife Katie – owns and runs the lovely Shergarh Camp in Mukki, Kanha. As we twist, turn, rock and roll around and through the potholes that do service for the highway between Jabalpur and Mandla I stare delightedly out of the window at the impossibly beautiful countryside we are driving through. Lush deep green paddy fields crowd against the dark green forested hills of the Maikal Range of the Satpura Mountains. This is a region that is blessed with rich soil and plentiful water. It is drained by the stunningly beautiful Narmada River – the Sacred Virgin – that cleanses even the Ganges of its burden of sins. Against the mosaic of subtle greens the cluster of beautiful red-tiled roofs that mark a village or hamlet add interest and depth to the scenery. The houses here are substantial – built of mud and wood with the elegance and beauty of architecture evolved and honed over centuries to deal with the climate, social conventions, practical requirements and available raw materials. Traditional architecture, in short and it is magnificent. I drive through prosperous villages in Jehan’s open jeep that are spotless, uncontaminated by plastic and the horrors of flat RCC roofs.  In one charming village, half the village high street appears to be occupied by just a handful of dwellings stretching amazing distances on either side of the road, pierced periodically by elegant gateways that lead to large courtyards. As I peer through them I can see that behind the outer wall is a thriving community of inter-connected homes, courtyards, wells, barns, cow-sheds – clearly the dwelling of an entire clan where the high wall screens the women folk from public gaze and allows for complete privacy. It is utterly charming and unique to this region.

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We ford crystal clear streams that are overhung by arjuna and jamun trees and patrolled by dozens of species of dragonflies. Indeed nothing can compare with the sheer richness of colourful insect life at this time. Village ponds, meadows, streams have their air-space densely occupied by dozens of hawkers, darters, darners, ghosts, ditch jewels stacked high in darting squadrons, wings glittering dangerously in the sunlight. Magic!

Bhutan – Lost Land of the Tiger

Several years ago I happened to be chatting to Dr. Chuck McDougal – one of the world’s great experts on the wild tiger (and my ex-Boss) – about his recently concluded survey of some of Bhutan’s forests on behalf of WWF – Bhutan. One of his most surprising finds was fresh sign of tigers that he found between 8,000 and 10,000 feet. This was fascinating information because where Chuck had found the sign was not atop a pass that tigers might use in crossing between one deep forested valley to another. Rather it was in high country along yak trails. Exactly the sort of country where Gordon Buchanan (the cameraman filming the BBC series on Bhutan’s tigers) found his first sign of tiger at over 10,000 feet in the form of a yak kill. We do know of course that tigers are incredibly adaptable. After all, except for the rarified air, the conditions in these high mountains are no different to the habitat and climatic conditions of the Amur or Siberian tiger. But somehow we have grown accustomed to images of tigers in snow-bound taiga. But here you have what is presumably a small population of the Indian race of tigers living in country that we have become accustomed to thinking of as Snow leopard habitat. Indeed this film makes the point that here is one of the last places left on earth where tigers, snow leopards and leopards share the same habitat. There are other places where the two smaller cats may be found together in the Himalayas – but to find a tiger in this high and inhospitable country begs the question as to what keeps them here? What is their prey? This is not a 100 lb leopard but a 500 lb super predator – the largest cat in the world. No doubt some of the answers will be spun out over the remaining two episodes but to my mind the key is the presence of large herds of yaks – the sort of large prey that tigers need. The film begins in the steaming lowlands of Bhutan – in the Royal Manas  National Park just across the river from Manas Tiger and Biosphere Reserve in the Indian state of Assam.

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It is a stunningly beautiful park – especially along the river and the wealth of wildlife of all descriptions that the film reveals make it an absolute joy to visit. Our trips to Manas are never less than 4 nights and now with the possibility of continuing up into highlands of Bhutan through the park, opens up all sorts of exciting possibilities. I can just imagine a ‘tiger trail’ following reports of tigers from the lowlands to the high pastures beneath the snows. Only Bhutan – with its reverence for all life, its tiny population in a relatively large area, its huge forests – could pull off such a trick.

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Lost Land of the Tiger will be broadcast on BBC One at 21.00BST on Wednesday 22nd and Thursday 23rd September.