Before the Jeep became the preferred ride for Rajasthan’s long-route cabbies or turned farm hand for desert cowboys, it enjoyed an iconic status and a glorious past when it came to a Rajasthan desert safari. Truth be told, the ubiquitous but rugged Indian 4X4 Jeep that roams the land today has a fine pedigree indeed. A direct descendant of the world famous American Willys Jeep, the Indian Jeep lives up to its forebear that has become part of adventure and wartime folklore. Today, the Jeep is back with a bang, riding on its simple, no-frills old-world charm, acquiring cult status as it roars across Rajasthan. Some families have retained their Jeep for generations while those who have recently been bitten by the Jeep bug spend a fortune restoring old Jeeps to mint condition!

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So the not-so-humble jeep is one highlight of a Rajasthan desert safari experience – an adventurous drive scrambling and climbing over dunes and higher crests with a maybe-mustachioed Jeep driver in khakis and beret who has been morphed into a getaway guy in a James Bond movie!

It’s not all about the transport! While on a safari of this ilk the outdoors beckons and the wind blows over the dunes and down the intersecting valleys. A gentle drive (about an hour and a half) through the terrain is a great way to cover the distances needed to find another reason we are here: the free-roaming wildlife herds. The delicate desert gazelles wander freely across the plains and dunes, often stopping to dip their heads and drink within this conservation-led sanctuary – one might come upon them in the dunes or pick them out where they are well-camouflaged amongst trees and shrubs. We stop for photo opportunities, pointing out animals and tracks, or focusing on your own specific interests, as well as pointing out some of the many bird species or lucky encounters with rarer inhabitants.

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For the desert landscape is, literally, spellbinding. For miles on end there’s nothing to be heard except the whooshing of the wind as it races over the frame of your sunglasses. But then, appearing from this arid apparently barren nothingness, you suddenly see an unexpected group of village women appear out of nowhere in their colorful finery, only to disappear like a mirage before your eyes. While on a Rajasthan desert safari you can also visit the homes of the inhabitants living in the desert (Bishnois, Rajputs, Meghwals) and peek into the homes and lives of the desert craftsmen; carpenters, metal-smiths and cobblers. Then there are unique species of flora and fauna that have adapted to the desert whilch is also home to arid-land farmers where one may also visit their holdings and learn about agriculture in this extraordinary landscape.

If you are planning your Rajasthan tours do visit Bhainsrorgarh, a fortified outpost of the kingdom of Mewar northeast of Udaipur. It crowns a 200 ft rocky ridge overlooking the river Chambal. The rulers of Bhainsrorgarh were conferred with the title of Rawat by the Maharana of Mewar. The Maharanas of Mewar once ruled the entire Rajputana, comprising of what is now Rajasthan, Gujarat and the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh. The Maharana of Mewar was considered the head of the Hindu race and hence was called ‘Hinduva Suraj’. The famous British historian Col. James Tod after seeing the splendid and mesmerizing beauty of Bhainsrorgarh said that if he was offered a fiefdom and given an option to choose it anywhere in Rajasthan, he would have chosen Bhainsrorgarh.

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The palace has been restored to its old world charm and your stay here will be one of the highlights during your Rajasthan tours. The fort has five large suites overlooking the river and paramount importance has been given to maintain the novelty of the architecture and decor by recreating the same aura in which royalties of Bhainsrorgarh lived.

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There are some rather interesting excursions that can be arranged to make your Rajasthan tours even more enjoyable. Apart from taking a boat ride on the River Chambal and going on a jeep safaris through the Mukundara National Park, do include a visit to the extraordinary Baroli temples dating from 9th century A.D that are situated 15kms from the fort in a secluded and peaceful wooded grove. The centerpiece is the 10th century Ghateshwar Mahadev Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The quality of the carvings here is unrivalled anywhere. The Temples have been sensitively restored and the surrounding gardens are well maintained and clean.

Rajasthan holidays

India, renowned for its profound cultures, vibrant arts, diverse cuisines and booming economy, can also be a place of sensory overload. It was with this in mind that Philippe developed Anopura: a place to experience and take in rural India – the country’s real heart and soul – gently, at your own pace, and as if from your own home.

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Situated approximately an hour’s drive from the Rajasthani capital of Jaipur, and nestled in the ancient Aravali mountains at the head of the beautiful Ramgarh Valley thus making it  a perfect retreat while on Rajasthan holidays. With just two luxurious bedroom suites, a luxury tent, excellent dining, impeccable staff and a location to die for, Anopura certainly warrants its title, the smallest luxury hotel in the world.  Built as a traditional Rajasthani country home with a stunning step-well inspired plunge pool, Anopura artfully brings together the ‘necessities’ of the most demanding Western traveler within a landscape and agricultural environment virtually unchanged in a millennia.

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Anopura was designed as a country house, surrounded by farmlands. It has a thatched roof so as to blend into the local countryside and carries a collection of local artworks. From the moment you arrive, the superbly trained staff welcomes you with chilled towels and fresh seasonal fruit juice, where you realize that you are truly in the lap of luxury. As you explore your new surroundings, you can move through the garden, rich with the scent of frangipani and other perfumed plants, arriving through a book-laden anteroom into Anopura’s shaded central courtyard, off which are the bedrooms, the dining room and a small study with satellite television and an Internet connected workstation.

In front of the house lies a stone clad plunge pool surrounded by charpoys, the traditional Indian day-bed, where you can lie back and take in the majestic views of the hills of the Aravali. On your Rajasthan holidays you may also choose to explore your new domain on foot, mountain bike, or more leisurely, by camel cart or jeep. To one side of the pool is a large pavilion for relaxing, reading, dining or simply taking aperitifs during sunset. Chotu, Anopura’s resident chef, trained in some of the finest restaurants of Rajasthan. Obviously a master of the delicious local Rajasthani dishes, he has also taken to Western and International cuisines with alacrity and has an extensive repertoire to suit any palette.

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Due to its proximity to Jaipur, one can use it as a base to see the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, Amber Fort, the Jaigarh Fort.  The renowned Sariska Tiger Reserve is just an hour’s drive as is Dera Amer where elephant safaris can be arranged. If you wish to take the road less travelled during your Rajasthan holidays, then consider travelling from Anopura to Ramathra Fort that lies south of the Golden Triangle offering stunning views of the countryside from its ramparts. At such places, absent is a bazaar with commercial traffic or food stalls. After the sun goes down, Bhajan-singing and community activities are more common than radio or television.  You can travel further south to stay at Bhainsrorgarh which is an ideal place from where one can visit the less explored town of Bundi famous for its beautiful palace and its frescos.  Udaipur famous for its floating palace and gorgeous city palace is just a 4 hour drive from Bhainsrorgarh and a superb way to end your Rajasthan holidays.

Falaknuma Palace, a recent addition to the Taj Hotels that owns luxury properties in the Indian Subcontinent, has recently opened its doors to discerning travellers looking for sheer luxury. Located in Hyderabad the capital of Andhra Pradesh, it is easily accessible from most other cities by air, rail and road and in many cases is the beginning of a remarkable journey through the Deccan.  Hyderabad is an integral part of the famous twin-city pair of Hyderabad and Secunderabad, which are situated on opposite banks of the Hussain Sagar Lake. Hyderabad has a romantic story behind its birth. Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah, the fifth king of Golconda, founded this city of Bhagyanagar in 1591 for the sake of his lover Bhagmathi. Later he renamed the city as Hyderabad. For guests planning a luxury holiday to India the Deecan has now become even more interesting  after the opening of Falaknuma Palace.

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The former residence of the Nizam of Hyderabad it was passed on from generation to generation like a precious jewel.  Taj Hotels has infused new life into this celebrated home under the guidance of Princess Ezra, wife of the eighth Nizam. Falaknuma Palace is ready to resume its status as Hyderabad’s most exclusive address in keeping with its storied heritage of hosting visiting royalty, such as King Edward VIII and Russia’s Tsar Nicholas II. Guests on a luxury holiday to India can now experience the famed Nizam’s hospitality which was once the sole preserve of royalty. It is also known as the ‘mirror of the sky’ because at 2000 feet above Hyderabad, it was built in the clouds and reflects the ever-changing moods of the sky. Set in 32 acres of land guests may select from 60 exquisite rooms and suites, including a Grand Presidential Suite, which were once the private chambers of the Nizam, royal family and state guests, and include the services of a personal butler.

As beautifully worded by Taj Hotels ‘Those who have revelled in its opulence have revelled in its large Venetian chandeliers, rare furniture, grand marble staircases and gurgling fountains, priceless statues, and objects d’art, stained-glass windows, unique sketches and murals encased in ornate frames, a world-class collection of crystal as well as the Mughal, Rajasthani and Japanese gardens personally conceived by the Nizam’. The Palace Library, a replica of the one at Windsor Castle, is a collector’s envy as it is home to the rarest of manuscripts, books and one of the most acclaimed collections of the Holy Quran in the country, all of which were selected and brought back by the Nizam himself.  William Ward Marret didn’t just design a Palace, he created a space dedicated to the art of perfecting pleasure. With many secrets still hidden I would highly recommend to make your own discoveries during your stay at Taj Falaknuma Palace whilst on a luxury holiday to India.

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Hyderabad has some fantastic sights if you are planning a stay at Falaknuma Palace.  A major landmark in the city, the Charminar was built just two years after the founding of Hyderabad. A monument with four graceful minarets, it is often referred to as the Arc de Triomphe of the East. Its central structure soars to a height of 180 feet. The Public Gardens at Hyderabad boast of some of the finest gardens in the country. One of the gardens is located very close to the Hyderabad railway station. This beautifully laid out garden is also home to the State Legislature building, State Archaeological Museum and Jubilee-Hall. One not to be missed is the Salar Jung Museum. It is home to the largest collection of antiques in the world owned by a single person. The museum was named after the Prime Minister of the Nizam, Nawab Mir Tulab Ali Khan who was titled Salar Jung Bahadur in 1853. He used to collect priceless gems of art wherever he travelled. His quest for objects d’art grew into a passion and laid the foundation for this massive collection. The museum exhibits over 47,000 choicest antiques. One of the most famed exhibits is the veiled Rebecca, the translucent white marble statue by Bezoni, an Italian sculptor. Some other valuables include Persian carpets, Chinese porcelain, Japanese lacquer-ware, sculptures, jade, Aurangazeb’s sword, daggers belonging to queen Nur Jehan and the Emperors Jehangir and Shah Jahan.

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If you’re partial to your poison, then the Palace also has a staggering collection of the rarest whiskies, single malts, luxury vodkas and cognacs, including Louis XIII, supplemented by an unrivalled selection of the finest handmade cigars from all over the world. Though one might on a luxury holiday to India, there is a lot to see and sometimes it can be quite overwhelming. A bar with such a collection is always a bonus when you have had a long day experiencing India. The culinary experience at Taj Falaknuma Palace recreates the passionate relationship between monarchs and their cuisines. The Palace offers two restaurants that reflect its European and Indian design influences: Celeste, serving Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, and Ada, featuring fine Indian dining, including a series of dishes taken from past palace banquet menus prepared in the Hyderabadi tradition of slow-cooking. Guests may also enjoy breakfast on the Jade Verandah or take Afternoon Tea in the exquisite Jade Room beneath Victorian-style hand-painted ceilings and Venetian chandeliers. Poolside relaxation includes inventive food and drink in The Rotunda, or guests may adjourn to the unique Hookah Lounge that recreates the romantic ambience of princely India, or opt for a sporting game in the Billiards Room with the Nizam’s personal bespoke billiards table.

Hyderabad and the Deccan is worthy of plenty of exploration in its own right and the Falaknuma Palace will certainly be on the top of my list when I plan my next luxury holiday to India.

Ask anyone their favourite beach destination in India and Goa is still the winner. Goa has seriously moved on.  Forget the happy-clappy scene – now Kate Moss, Mick Jagger and Daniel Craig are all going. All the kaftan-wearing, champagne-sipping thirty something’s are renting stylish, funky houses that equal the places they love in Ibiza and Morocco.

Talk about luxury holiday homes in India and tucked away at the end of a quiet lane, off the bustling main road to Calangute, is Aashyana.  This royally appointed jewel in the crown nestles on the prettiest stretch of Candolim beach, in a lush tropical garden exuding tranquillity. It’s a lovely, intimate little hotel created by a local entrepreneur named Ajai Lakhanpal.  The choice is yours to be pampered in the elegant luxury holiday home, the fully staffed 5 bedroom villa or reside in style at one or more of the three self-contained two bedroom cottages – Casinhas – each complete with an individual, private garden.

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A sweeping drive leads you to the entrance villa, a stunning two-storey, five-bedroom luxury holiday home. The spacious veranda spans the entire ground floor, with built-in seating areas in the traditional Goan-Portuguese style. Inside, the contemporary décor offsets select pieces of furniture from the owner’s collection. The luxurious use of materials in the architect designed rooms includes honey-coloured Rajasthani stone, charcoal grey granite and subtle mosaics. Both in the interior and in the external spaces, the essence of Aashyana Lakhanpal is conveyed through an emphasis on tranquillity.

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There are three Aashyana Casinhas – Leo, Libra and Capricorn, clustered within the grounds of the main villa and are reached through their independent, wrought-iron gate leading to a delightful courtyard. The whitewashed casinhas are stylish and welcoming, using neutral décor and local features like terracotta-tiled roofs, stone floors and traditional built-in seating. This décor contrasts and highlights the owner’s private art collection. Whichever you choose, this gorgeous holiday home in India awaits you in a breath-taking setting, within a few paces of Candolim’s sun kissed beach.  The shadowy garden, with its coconut groves, lime, cashew and ‘ guava trees, contains a dragonfly-spangled , swimming pool, a gate to Candolim beach,  also a pavilion from which to watch Goa’s stupendous oceanic sunsets.

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Ashyana’s spacious dining area is complemented by an optional garden dining facility for al fresco lunches or candle lit dinners under the stars – unforgettable luxury. The kitchen garden supplies a variety of organic herbs and vegetables and you can also plan an exciting fresh seafood menu with our chef Jagat Singh who recipes are a treat in itself.

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There is an informal gallery where guests may ponder a unique collection of modern Indian art. Lakhanpal, before he turned his home into a hotel, threw it open to any young painters requiring free board and lodging, and in return asked only that each give him a picture. They’re hanging there today, among the most interesting a portrait of Lakhanpal himself by Goa’s most famous son, Mario Miranda. This luxury holiday home comes along with armies of staff on-site masseurs and gourmet chefs -  oh, and the decor is pretty hot, too.  The back of Aashyana Lakhanpal opens up, LA-style, onto a lush garden, the kind of green paradise we all want to find in the hippie idyll.

A shaded path leads up to a classical porch and wide veranda which overlooks an inviting, mosaic tiled 20 meter private pool set to the right of the villa. Both internally and externally the Villa has been thoughtfully provided with easy access to all facilities for wheelchairs if needed. Whether relaxing in the air conditioned luxury of the interior or sunbathing in the sumptuous gardens around the pool, let your senses be seduced by the Aashyana. Delicadeza, a charming Portuguese term, describes a specific sense of style, courtesy and gracious living. I am convinced that your stay at this luxury home in India will be permeated with this sense of delicadeza.

The journey through India is never ending. For most travellers North India meant a journey through the Golden Triangle visiting the iconic Taj Mahal and beautiful palaces in the colourful city of Jaipur. You can make it a memorable experience by trying to explore the rich heritage and diverse cultural influences of northern India by taking a tour that encompasses the holy city of Varanasi and the intricately carved temples at Khajuraho.
Varanasi is the spiritual heart of India – a seething throng of pilgrims, holy men, Saddhus and tourists, all gathered to give praise to the Holy Ganges. Combine that with a trip to the erotic temples of Khajuraho and Gwalior, a city with a remarkable ancient palace, temples and cenotaphs. Having backpacked through the subcontinent I always dreamt of luxury holidays to North India and finally embarked on one such journey. I boarded the Shatabdi Express, a fast train between Delhi and Gwalior. On arrival, a cheerful guide drove me to the beautiful Usha Kiran Palace where I was welcomed in true Gwalior tradition. Enter at this 120-year-old palace, which has played host to the King of England and is now a heritage hotel. Set amidst 9 acres of beautifully landscaped lawns, this regal palace, rich in history, is outfitted with artistic stone carvings and delicate filigree work. I visited the majestic Gwalior Fort on the day I arrived to experience the Son et Lumiere show. Replete with every contemporary amenity, its original architecture, meticulously restored, every dining moment at the Usha Kiran Palace is truly reminiscent of living as royalty. After a sumptuous breakfast I went on a guided visit to Gwalior Fort and the Archaeological Museum in the morning. Don’t miss the many giant Jain carvings hewn into the cliff sides leading to the fort. In the afternoon I wandered to the Palace Museum which is next door to your hotel. I continued my journey through this fascinating part of North India to visit Orchha and pretty village known for its outstanding palaces and temples set along the River Betwa.

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For someone going on luxury holidays to North India, Orchha doesn’t offer the Oberoi’s or the Taj’s but trust me, it’s a great stopover between Gwalior and Khajuraho. En route I stopped at Datia Fort which can be seen from miles around. After spending a day walking through the fairly less explored town of Orchha, I travelled by road to Khajuraho which is famous for its temples dating back to the 10th and 12th century. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were original over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 25 now stand in a reasonable state of preservation. My stay was at the Grand Temple View, the only luxury hotel within close proximity to the Western group of temples. For anyone visiting Khajuraho this is probably the best property to stay and guests have an option of choosing a temple view room to make their stay even more memorable. The roads are quiet here so you can hire some bikes and explore the more remote temples. The evening comes alive with the Son et Lumiere show at the main complex.

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After being templed out, I travelled by air to Varanasi the Hindu religious centre. I knew this was the highlight of my trip and my wish came true when I checked into the grand Nadesar Palace. Your search for luxury holidays in North India ends here. Situated in one of the oldest living cities of the world, on the banks of the river Ganges, Nadesar Palace has hosted royalty, statesmen and celebrities since 1835. The name Nadesar is derived from the Goddess Nadesari, whose shrine is located in the front of the Palace. Set amidst verdant gardens, mango orchards, marigold and jasmine fields, Nadesar Palace is a haven of peace and tranquillity. Works of art from the Maharaja’s collection decorate the walls of the Palace’s 10 luxurious suites. Embellished with original pieces of furniture refurbished to recreate the atmosphere of a bygone era, the décor of the rooms is intended to evoke the colours of marigolds, jasmines, and pale pink lotuses that are offered to the holy Ganges. Dining at the Nadesar Palace is an indulgent experience starting with breakfast on the sun-kissed veranda; a spiritually inspired plated meal at lunch in the dining room, and a barbeque dinner by the poolside.
Early in the morning I was taken to the Ganges for a boat ride at sunrise when you can witness people performing their morning rituals along the ghats. The boat ride was followed by a walking tour of the old city. If you aren’t tired it’s worth visiting Sarnath which is supposed to be the place where Buddha gave his first sermon. In the evening I visited the Dasaswamedh Ghat to experience a religious ceremony. It’s simple and an experience not to be missed.

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The palace has a beautiful spa that brings guests the essence of traditional royal wellness and therapeutic experiences. Blending ancient Indian wisdom with contemporary therapies, the Jiva Spa offers Indian rejuvenation therapies ranging from aromatherapy massages, time-honoured treatments, body scrubs and wraps.
My memorable journey through some of the most interesting cities and a fantastic luxury holiday to North India had come to an end. It was time to head back to the capital New Delhi.

Luxury holidays to India

Luxury,  as easy as it sounds is in fact extremely difficult when you actually try to define it.  During my visit to Rajasthan in July 2009, I came across the Aman Resorts, a chain of luxury resorts scattered not far away from each other in the colourful state of Rajasthan.  Since 1988 when the flagship Amanpuri opened in Phuket, Aman has established three resorts in India redefining luxury holidays to India.

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It’s difficult to express the guests experience at Aman as it ticks all the boxes. It offers an intimate and discreet experience while providing the highest level of service. Each resort and setting is unique, but certain elements characterise all of them — a beautiful natural location, outstanding facilities, exceptional service and a small number of rooms to ensure exclusivity and privacy.  From the garden estate Amanbagh set in the foothills of the Aravallis built in a haveli style to the wilderness camp Aman I Khas that sits on a gentle slope on the fringes of Ranthambore National Park against a backdrop of hills each leaves an impression, an indelible mark. Their newest addition is Aman Delhi just minutes from the grandeur of Rashtrapati Bhavan and the peaceful Lodhi gardens. It completes the triangle for someone in search of luxury holidays to India. The design of the resort is contemporary, complemented with Indian touches such as hand-made rugs and jaali screens. Spacious suites afford guests the opportunity to relax in enveloping comfort.

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Aman excursions are a class apart. I was particularly impressed by their walks that can be combined with culture trails.  At Aman Bagh the resort can arrange day trips to the Pink city of Jaipur and walks to the surrounding countryside.  The experience at Aman I Khas is focused on wildlife viewing. Having said that they also arrange visits to the Old City and Khandar Fort which is one of Rajasthan dramatic ruins. Not very far from the resort is the Banas River, an ideal spot for a picnic style lunch. The pools are fringed by water grass and decorated with lilies, creating an excellent feeding ground for wading birds and other water fowl. Guests can enjoy a half-day excursion to this birder’s paradise, strolling the banks of the river with a naturalist. At Aman Delhi they arrange off the beaten track tours to the Moghul city of Shahajanabad or to several private galleries that regularly host art exhibitions of paintings, pottery, sculptures, photographic art and prints by many up-and-coming artists.

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The Spa at Aman Resorts is a class apart. It provides a refined and peaceful environment in which to relax. Using organic Aman products created from pure and proactive ingredients, traditional treatments as well as henna art, local specialities are on offer.

Camel Treks India – Camel trekking in India is simply the tourist version of an age-old form of travel that allowed people to traverse the endless sands and scrub of the Thar Desert in Western Rajasthan. When you have that much acreage under sand, camels are a handy ride and they are deeply entrenched in the culture of these desolate but surprisngly densely populated regions on the borders of Pakistan. Even today there are extensive stretches of border country where remote oases support tiny hamlets and picturesque sand dunes are the scenes of a constant cat and mouse game between camel-mounted smugglers and camel-mounted border guards!

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Fact is, camels are a fantastic way to get away from the crowds and retreat into the magnificent silence and remote beauty of the deep desert. In the early days of tourism here, Jaislamer was the perfect location for these camel safaris but with the growth of tourist numbers I have looked to get away from the crowds and the packaged epxerience that some operators provide. Half-way between Jaisalmer and Jodhpur is a place called Manvar which is now the location for one of the most wonderful desert experiences in India – a private tented camp in the solitude of the great dunes. You can arrive here by jeep – but for me that is anathema. You may or may not like camels but this is their natural habitat – nothing else will do. And people forget just how alive with life the desert is: nilgai antelope inhabit the strip between the desert and the sown accompanied by graceful little chinkara gazelle; bushy tailed desert foxes streak across and over the dunes in pursuit of the richness of insect and rodent life; desert cats watch patiently over mouse and gerbille holes and an amazing array of birds patrol the skies and live in the scrub lands dependant on water in the farms and the oases that punctuate this landscape. And there is no better way to enjoy this than from camel-back.

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The fully staffed special exclusive mobile camp provides some magical moments – especially at sunset when unexpected surprises can loom out of the darkening landscape. One evening, listening to a group of inspired desert singers as the stars climbed high overhead, we were startled to see a line of camels emerge silently out of the dusk, be-turbaned riders silhouetted in the firelight seemingly for an instant before disappearing over a ridge of sand.

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The tents are large, comfortable with excellent ensuite facilities and the entire arrangement very beautifully managed. And then there is the glory of the night skies in the desert when the stars seem just an arms length away and the Milky Way is a substantial presence. Nothing stirs the silence – except the occasional gurgle of your camels, settled in for the night.

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