If staying at one of the colonial houses in Himalayas and looking out at the impossible bright blue sky or gazing at the snow capped mountains at a distance with a cup of tea entices you, include a stay at Rokeby Manor that was built in 1840 by Captain G.N. Cauthy which is one of the landmarks of Landou

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The house and two acre estate are situated slightly above and to the east of St. Paul’s Church and the old cantonment parade ground, which is now Char Dukan. Like many houses in Mussoorie, its name is taken from the writings of Sir Walter Scott, whose book-length poem describes heroic battles near the original Rokeby Castle in England. Several years after it was built, the house came into the possession of Lt. Col. Reilly, who also owned Ralston, another residence in Mussoorie. In 1878, Reilly mortgaged both properties for Rs. 25,000 to Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, a controversial adventurer and entrepreneur, who was the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s classic story, “The Man Who Would Be King”.  Since then Rokeby exchanged hand and was used as a guest house throughout the rest of the 20th century. Today, Rokeby has been carefully restored to its original glory. This heritage building is resplendent with character in its elaborate brick arches and niches, intricate stone walls, real wood doors and beams, and cosy replaces. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, the traditions of bygone years – where colonial o cers, renegade soldiers of fortune and pious miss saibs lived under one roof–can still be felt. An air of mystery beckons visitors.

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Each room in Rokeby Manor has its own unique character, having been restored to its original 19th century décor. Rooms are located throughout the Manor between the main house and the tea garden. Their luxurious and charming suite has been designed in a Victorian style with a cozy fireplace. While staying at these colonial houses in Himalayas, one can enjoy idyllic views of the valley and the tea garden from your own private balcony . Rooms have been decorated in quaint English country style with traditional wooden beams and inviting nooks and corners. These are the only rooms located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and have breathtaking views of the valley.

Emily’s , a homely dining room with scenic surroundings overlooking the valley. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu has a mouthwatering selection of Indian and Continental dishes and is open from 06:30 am till midnight. Dining on the terrace, under a moonlit sky, is an ideal for a romantic dinner or enjoy a hot cuppa accompanied by cake in the freshness of the Tea Garden.

While staying at these colonial houses in Himalayas . those who’d like to wander off the beaten track and experience the beauty of nature, trails or scenic drives can be arranged from the property. Walk the forest trail to the top of the Witches Hills or try the longer Flag Hill where beautiful rhondondendron is in full bloom and if you are lucky the guide will point out a barking deer.  I would also recommend visiting Pepperpot and Pepperpot Cave, a mountain so named because the squareness of its top resembles a pepperpot or shaker. Located to the east of Mussoorie, it is a leisurely day hike of around 8 kms. A nice place to see spectacular views of the surrounding hills, valleys and the distant snows. Also, a good area to meet up with some of the local fauna and birds. Don’t leave without visiting Sanji, the corn village, less than 2 hours away. Sanji is like nothing you have seen before with bright orange corn cobs handing to dry in bunches from each ancient house and vast fields of mustard swaying gently in the wind.

Located in the North East of the Indian sub continent, the Buddhist Kingdom of Sikkim shares borders with Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal and is nestled in the heart of India’s Eastern Himalayan range. Sikkim contains an environmental legacy of untouched but incredibly stunning and uniquely diverse landscapes and a cultural mosaic under the looming presence of the world’s third highest mountain, Kanchenjunga.

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Himalayan walking is at the heart of this experience, enabling you to enjoy the villages and rural life in remote mountain regions. Accompanied by local porters and guides, you step out of the modern world, walking between villages that are remote, and staying in traditional village houses, which a local company have spruced up to provide proper comfort without compromising their authenticity.  We will arrange visits to local schools, monasteries and markets to enable you to get a full understanding of the culture of each region, its people, religion and customs. Providing authentic experiences of local life, the walks are the perfect antidote to the frenetic world that most of us live in.

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These usually are three to four day walks. On your first day you will be met by your private guide and driven approximately 5 hours to your house in Sandyang Lee Village near Rinchenpong. The Sangdyang Lee House is beautifully located and offers fantastic views of the Kanchenjunga massif. In the early evening, your guide will give you an introductory briefing about Himalayan walking and your tour after which you will be invited to enjoy an evening around the fire with drinks and a delicious dinner under the stars.

The next day your Himalayan walking begins with a gentle climb along a lush jungle trail, by isolated houses and quaint hamlets along the way. You will find that the local people are ever smiling and very friendly. Pass by the Rangeet River in a lovely valley and continue onto the Magi Darra from where you can enjoy stunning views of the entire valley below. Further ahead is Poison Lake, which also offers fantastic Himalayan views. Close by is the newly constructed Gurung monastery which is also worth a visit. This afternoon we have a delicious picnic lunch arranged for you. On the way back you will have a chance to visit a traditional house that belongs to the Lepchas, who are the aboriginal people of Sikkim.

Awake at dawn the following day to walk up a short distance above the house to watch the sun come up. The sight of the sun rising through the fluttering prayer flags with Kanchenjunga in the background is truly unforgettable.  From here continue on to Rinchenpong Monastery to participate in the early morning prayers which the monks conduct daily. The prayers and chanting are truly fascinating and spiritually uplifting. Drive back to the house for breakfast. Later today you will head to Hee Village to our next house. The route runs along a ridge from where you will be able to get some amazing views. On the way you will pass through the charming village of Bhasmay.

Break the journey and take in the beauty of this region while you enjoy a delicious picnic lunch at a lovely spot. About one and a half hours later you will reach Hee.

After breakfast, the owner of the village house will show you around his village. This is fabulous opportunity to meet and interact with the local people. Continue uphill, through a wildlife sanctuary, to the enchanted lakes- a series of three beautiful lakes one after the on the mountain side. After a picnic lunch, walk along a flat path to a local cave, which the locals consider to be a home for holy spirits.  Radhu Kandu village is our next destination where you will arrive mid afternoon. The rest of the day is at leisure to enjoy as you desire.

The house at Radhu Kandu is the most special of the three. It is a charming traditional Sikkimese house with two bedrooms and outside toilets and showers. The owner family is lovely and quite entertaining to spend time with. The location is sublime and there is nothing better than having tea in the sit out room which has 270° views of the area. After breakfast, you will continue your Himalayan walking back down to the road head from where you will be driven for approximately 5 hours to Bagdogra where you can board a flight to Delhi.

Everyone wants to get away from their hectic life to a place where they can relax and see places they have heard before. I recently came across one such location off the beaten track. Nandadevi is an exclusive heritage estate – an invitation for people with a love of the Himalayas and nature. Guests may step back in time and enjoy their Himalayan Holidays in simplicity coupled by style and sophistication.

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Between 1805 and 1947, the British ruled Kumaon and established their administrative capital in Almora. With a keen eye for the best spots and a great sense of style and good taste, the British discovered Binsar, with its unparalleled natural beauty and sweeping views. Set at 7500 ft in the heart of Binsar Sanctuary, the NandaDevi property was the residence of a succession of District Magistrates from 1856 to 1945, after which it passed into the hands of the Shah family of Almora who owned a store providing groceries and wines to the British. Against a 700 rupee wine bill, Mr Van Renen handed over the property to Shyam Lal Shah who in turn sold it to Vivek Datta, a philosopher turned gentleman farmer from an aristocratic Delhi family, and his Belgian musicologist wife Marie in 1956, exactly a hundred years after it was built. It provides a unique Himalayan holidays experience, where the awe inspiring peaks in an unbroken chain of 500 kms can be contemplated up close. The wild beauty of virgin Himalayan oak and rhododendron forests surrounding the estate urge you to connect with nature, explore its secrets, and return to time and again.

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Nandadevi Estate is located in the core area of Binsar Sanctuary, which is under the management of Corbett National Park. There are only 5 properties in the higher reaches of Binsar Sanctuary, and they are all separated by kilometres of thick forest. The property, 20 acres of land, comprises of terraced fields and a 155 years old heritage bungalow – originally built by a British administrator in 1854. What makes the Nandadevi Estate one of the most beautiful places in the world, is not only its views but the harmonious way in which the property is naturally set with its own five hills, each with exquisite views, and its terraced fields which once were a thriving farm and apple orchard, and are gradually being restored to their original state a few acres at a time. All efforts have been made so that guests have the unique experience of stepping back in time and enjoying the simplicity coupled by the sophistication. The entire estate is at the disposal of the guests along with the estate staff making it a relaxing Himalayan holiday.

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The Estate has two Bungalows – The Goralkot Bungalow, built in the mid nineteenth century, is steeped in history and atmosphere and has been restored in a typical colonial style with wide verandahs, bay windows, and high ceilinged rooms with plenty of light and space. The whole structure is made of stone and wood. The rooms with four poster beds and their arched wooden ceiling and bay windows are furnished with priceless antiques from the Raj.  The Writer’s cottage was originally a barn located in the middle of the apple orchards and farm and was converted into a cottage in the mid 1980’s. An Italian writer called Tiziano Terzani, an icon in Europe as much for his writing as for his philosophy, stayed in the cottage for five years and wrote his most celebrated book there. The cottage is double storeyed and has a wraparound verandah from which views of Nandadevi, framed between two hills, views of Panchachuli and the Nepal Himalayas are visible. Done in pinewood and stone, the cottage has picture windows in every room and sunlight throughout the day.  Built around the concept of light and space, each room, including the bathrooms, have breath-taking views making it a perfect retreat for a Himalayan holiday.

They have recently revived the farm and four acres of land have been planted with vegetables and crops slowly we will bring the property back to its former days when there used to be 4000 fruit trees and substantial agriculture. The property also has a cowshed housing five milk cows, a bull, two riding horses, a few sheep, and chickens. Guests can order their meal fresh from the vegetable garden or dairy and watch the cows being milked. The farm, providing fresh dairy and poultry products and a range of local and exotic vegetables and fruit, ensures guests will enjoy Indian and Continental cuisine cooked to their taste and requirements in the bungalow kitchens.

They have a range of activities like hikes and bird watching in the Sanctuary, camping, horse riding, and mountain biking and day treks inside the Sanctuary as well as visits to nearby places of interest. However, the breath-taking surroundings and the luxuries of old world comforts and home grown, home cooked food will make it hard for guests to move out. Having said that I am sure guests who decide to go on Himalayan holidays want to explore the countryside and for those walks in Binsar Sanctuary ranging from easy strolls to day treks with picnic lunches can be arranged.  For guests who love riding, Horse riding along the old British horse trails in the Sanctuary can be organised. If you want to taste a bit of culture excursions to Almora to visit the Nanda Devi temple, the Old Bazaar and the main production unit of Panchachuli Women Weavers can be arranged.

It’s a unique concept and a one of a kind Himalayan holidays experience.

Himalayan Holidays – Ladakh – I’ve been talking about Himalayas Holidays on my previous posts – but mainly about the Eastern Himalayas. It’s easy to forget when talking about this or that peak that this range of mountains stretches for over 1500 miles from Afghanistan to the Burmese border. The terrain varies and nothing could be more different to the lush extravagance of the Eastern stretch of these mountains than the arid remoteness of Ladakh – the land of passes, Little Tibet – where the borders of three contending powers – India, China and Pakistan – collide in a wilderness of glaciers and forbidding peaks. Having grown up in the Garhwal Himalaya – source of the Ganges – a forested, bountiful and gentler (relatively) stretch of mountain country, I was at first unsettled and then utterly seduced by the sere, austere grandeur of these arid heights. Some descriptions thoughtlessly label it a ‘moonscape’. I find that ridiculous – for this is a landscape rich in colour and life. As you trudge up an endless valley the skies – a deep, impossible blue – are patrolled by Golden Eagles and bearded vultures. High on the slopes you may spot ibex or blue sheep and as you camp at night it is prudent to keep the packhorses tethered for wolves sing to the Moon.

Round a corner and the drab hues of sand and stone are startlingly counterpoised by the vivid green of a field of young barley tended by a smiling family whose gentle good humour belies their stone-hard physicality. Villages climb away into the hill-sides, white-washed and red-trimmed mud houses picturesquely framed by apricot and willow. If you are lucky – as many of our guests are – you will be invited by the lady of the house into her vast kitchen and there, amidst gleaming copper and brass, be invited to partake of cool Chhang or rice beer or hot butter tea – more a nourishing soup than the genteel beverage of England.

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Ladakh is a land of pastel hues and flaming sunsets. Here you still find the old untouched Buddhism of Tibet. Ancient monasteries soar, tier upon tier, up the mountainside and an age-old way of life is sustained by the piety of a free and unconstrained people. The Indus, rising in high Tibet, flows through Ladakh nourishing the central valley where Leh, the capital, is situated. This is a fascinating land by any measure – landscape, wildlife, history, culture, religion, geo-politics. If you’ve watched the BBC snow leopard documentaries filmed by Hugh Miles – they were shot here using the same groups of researchers who support our snow leopard treks. The money from our trips going directly into the villages – an incentive to protect snow leopards rather than to kill them. When I first went to Ladakah in 1978 this was still a frontier territory. Now you can choose your level of comfort – from the Shakti properties which partner with Ladakhi families to convert homes into luxury home-stays to more basic but authentic Ladakhi-owned properties. But where you stay is inconsequential when compared with what you see.

Walking in the Himalayas has to be one of the most perfect antidotes to frantic modern living. Our Himalayan holidays include long fairly arduous but exhilarating treks in high country but also a terrific range of relaxed walking holidays at somewhat lower altitudes that enjoy panoramic views of the high ranges while simultaneously providing fascinating glimpses into the lives and culture of the mountain people. Some of our Himalayan walking holidays use charming village homes that have been simply but tastefully adapted to the needs of western travellers. We have also recently added a couple of lovely, gentle treks in the lower (relatively speaking) hills of Himachal Pradesh that end up in Shimla or begin in Shimla. The classic Himalayan trek or walking holiday was the expedition style adventure where you went off into the high mountains with a large train of pack horses or porters, completely self-contained except for water. This remains the preferred option in high country and for longer treks. The independence and flexibility that this allows is particularly in keeping with that quest for freedom that underlies the impulse to foray into mountains away from the humdrum bonds of domesticity that anchor our everyday lives.

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In recent years there has been an exciting development that has added to the possibilities of Indian luxury holidays in Himalayas. This is the growth of beautifully located historic homes that are being converted to homestays in the most magnificent locations – many of which are now either within or at the edge of protected wildlife sanctuaries.

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There is nothing more relaxing, more fun than to have a comfortable base from which to head out for gentle or vigorous walks as the mood takes one without the compulsions of completing a set day’s march to the next camp. And if the weather turns bad – as mountain weather can – the option to retreat to a warm fire with a good book and, glass to hand, smugly contemplate the prospects of nothing more rigorous than an excellent meal while the weather blows itself to exhaustion outside. Our Himalayan walking holidays encompass the entire gamut of winter treks in Ladakh searching for snow leopards to relaxed walking trips from a comfortable base.

Trekking Nepal- I recently received a letter from a friend from my Nepal days in which he swears that the mountains have become higher – well, they are supposed to be growing at about 2 cms. a year – and that “some b……has gone and made them steeper too!” He does grumpily concede that it may have something to do with the fact that he is now a ‘senior’ – an ill-defined term that has nothing to do with time spent on earth but how well your knees perform going downhill. Of course, the joy of Nepal is that you can walk through jungled plains, or gentle Middle Himalayas or assault an 8000 meter peak. It’s all there. Best to get out there sooner rather than later though, for progress – as defined by the encroaching reach of roads, traffic and all that goes with it – is coming to the mountains and whatever the benefits to the locals, it does bring the sort of change that one is trying to get away from in the first place.

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Being an ex-Tiger Tops man I am admittedly biased but I think by any measure the Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge has to be one of the best of its kind anywhere in the world. It has just the right balance of local style, architecture and materials, simplicity, elegance and comfort that makes you feel at home but special. And what a location – a ridge 1500 feet above the Pokhara Valley with a skyline crowded with Himalayan giants – the entire Annapurna massif, Machha Puchhare (Fishtail) – a chiselled stone age dagger piercing the heavens – Peak 29, Manaslu.  The walking from here with the spectacular back-drop is fantastic. Villages and terraced fields crowd the hillside and a path runs east dropping after several miles to the valley floor. One bright December morning a small group of us headed out with an excellent young naturalist guide – a local kid trained by Tiger Mountain. Every breath was a celebration of life. An ancient Tata bus wheezed up a dirt road, grinding past a bright coca-cola emblazoned parasol set sharp against the elegant triangle of Fishtail. As the sun climbed the thermals brought out the raptors – Himalayan griffons, steppe eagles, Greater spotted eagle, Booted eagle and – as we crawled up a short but almost vertical stepped section – a huge bearded vulture dropped down on rocking wings to investigate eliciting the classic remark from Tim H (all of 80 then), “Clearly our speed up the hill suggests that we are dead.”

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Returning to the lodge in the late afternoon, I sat on the verandah cup of tea in hand watching the sunlight change from flat-and-bright to slanting gold. The little wisps of afternoon condensation cleared and as the Sun slipped below the horizon, the high peaks flared pink and vermilion in the alpenglow. So beautiful that even the memory is a pleasurable ache.

Holiday in Eastern Himalayas – in the previous piece I talked a bit about Glenburn and forgot to mention the fact that it is still very much a working tea garden and the manager of that side of things is a chap called Sanjay Sharma. If you like fishing, snakes, walking, birding or just having a bit of a yak about all things wild and outdoorsy – Sanjay is your man. Terrific company – backed up by the quiet charm and efficiency of the manager of the hotel side of Glenburn – Nina. Nina is a retired planter’s wife and creates such a warm and hospitable atmosphere that a stay at Glenburn is like being indulged in the home of well-off friends. And there’s so much to do here – visits to Darjeeling, fishing and rafting on the Rangeet river which flows into the mighty Teestha not too far away; the most extravagant picnics at the little lodge by the river where you could even spend a night; walks – but be warned – this is the Eastern Himalayas – some of the steepest country on earth. Walking downhill is bad enough but be careful what you commit yourself to on the return! Oh – and did I mention that you have the most fabulous views of Kangchenjunga? And because the Eastern Himalayas are not always clear, the staff have a lovely habit – on a clear morning – of waking you at dawn so you can feast on the magnificent view – cup of Darjeeling in hand.

Is it possible to contemplate holidays in eastern Himalayas – of any description -  without Darjeeling intruding somewhere? In 1896 Mark Twain boarded the ‘Toy Train’ at Siliguri and was so entranced by the 40 mile, 8-hour journey to Darjeeling that he immediately declared it as “the most enjoyable day I have spent on the Earth.” And if you have seen BBC 4’s wonderful series on Indian Hill Trains with one of the episodes devoted to the Darjeeling hill train or Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (in its present avatar of world heritage monument), you’ll understand just why. It isn’t just the stupendous scenery as the track jacknifes its way up some of the most precipitous mountains on Earth; it isn’t even the richness of trees and plants and flowers and shrubs that that you encounter or even the velvety lushness of the endless tea that you pass through beyond Kurseong. No – it’s the fact that this little train and its tiny tracks are so deeply woven into the human landscape of the Darjeeling hills, shouldering it’s way through traffic jams and pedestrians and roadside markets and quaint little stations, monasteries and temples, often at no more than a slow walking pace – a human pace. And if you are incredibly lucky and find a completely clear day, you could even find yourself steaming past the massive rearing bulk of Kangchenjunga seemingly almost within touching distance. That is magic.

Eastern Himalayas

But don’t harbour too many illusions about Darjeeling. Yes, some of the old buildings of the Raj remain but for the most part the town has surrendered to the ramshackle decrepitude and general nondescriptness that has infected so many of the old hill stations. Not so the surrounding countryside, however. A mere hour and a half from Darjeeling and 3000 feet lower will bring you to Glenburn.

Glenburn

Glenburn is the name of a tea plantation and in the name one can detect the plaintive yearning of a Brit far from home – a yearning quickly doused by the cold realities of ‘home’ when compared with the indulgences of India during the Raj – especially if you were a Sahib. Well – think of all the indulgences, service, comfort, scenery, outdoor recreation, indoor décor and style, cuisine and little un-thought of luxuries that your imagination might conjure up – then multiply by two and you have Glenburn. A fabulous creation of Husna-Tara Prakash, the wife of the owner of Glenburn, who has converted the old managers bungalow and added another new wing built in faithful imitation of the old planter’s style and furnished them with such perfect taste and understated but natural style that the word ‘boutique’ intrudes as a crass interloper. I have one rule – if any client gets anywhere near the eastern Himalayas, they have to end up at Glenburn – no matter how many raging mountain torrents they have to ford, cliff-edge mule-tracks to negotiate, yak trains they have to follow – Glenburn is a must. Almost my most favourite place in these hills. Watch this space…