Rising like a phoenix, created from gleaming yellow-gold sandstone, is Suryagarh, designed as a 19th century fort with modern day luxuries, its an exquisite hotel that should definitely feature in Rajasthan luxury holidays.

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At first glance, the carved façade of the hotel looked artfully aged. All illusion, because it’s actually brand new. The owners wanted to deliver a heritage experience, but with modern luxuries. So instead of finding a property that fit the bill they created one from scratch. The end result is a brand new fort, yes a fort, that looks like it’s existed here for centuries. The entrance, a traditional arched gateway with a touch of whimsy, extends across the hotel. Birdcages strung together and filled with glittering lights give the illusion of entering someplace fantastical. Reality returns with the short but bone-jarring drive up the rough path that leads to the hotel.

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The aesthetic of this new fort is undeniably Rajputana, as seen in the sprawling lobby. The walls are covered with shields, swords and spears; rustic wood and metal chests and cabinets are scattered amidst the low seating arrangements.  Keeping with the structure of a traditional fort, the centre is taken up by a massive courtyard. On one side, the pool, Neel, aptly washes the walls in turquoise and dull-gold.  There are 62 rooms in total sorted as Palace rooms and Junior, Historical and Jaisalmer Suites. For someone on Rajasthan luxury holidays I would highly recommend the Historical Suites with large sitting rooms that will meet anyone’s expectations of a royal quarter. There are baroque touches everywhere in the suite: chocolate velvet curtains play a delicious contrast to the decadent cream seating; lilac silk-screened walls are embossed with dull gold prints. And from the charming sunroom, you can view the unending sands.

The Palace rooms are smaller in comparison, but still much larger than your average hotel lodging, complete with massive twin beds. The two premier Jaisalmer Suites are airy and filled with bursts of vermillion and fuchsia. The bathrooms come fitted with jacuzzis. A wooden staircase leads up to a terrace and a private pool, creating a veritable oasis in the sparseness of the Thar Desert. The Historical Suite bathroom has a bubble bath strewn with rose petals. A tropical shower on the other side of the room looks equally inviting. Rait, the spa at Suryagarh, will have therapies that will use desert sand.

If you are up for it, the hotel offers handcrafted experinces which go well with guests on Rajasthan luxury holidays. I would strongly recommend the high tea on the sand dunes.  It’s a 4 km ride in a 4×4 to the golden dunes. A latticed canopy floating gently over a setting of bolsters and mattresses awaits you. Surrounded by miles of nothing but sand and a lone musician playing a wistful tune on the kamaycha you can watch the sun set over the while being plied with sandwiches and espresso by liveried butlers. The flaming vista fades to pink and crimson, swallowes eventfully by grey. Not a sight easily forgotten and one certainly worth returning for.

If you are planning your Rajasthan tours do visit Bhainsrorgarh, a fortified outpost of the kingdom of Mewar northeast of Udaipur. It crowns a 200 ft rocky ridge overlooking the river Chambal. The rulers of Bhainsrorgarh were conferred with the title of Rawat by the Maharana of Mewar. The Maharanas of Mewar once ruled the entire Rajputana, comprising of what is now Rajasthan, Gujarat and the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh. The Maharana of Mewar was considered the head of the Hindu race and hence was called ‘Hinduva Suraj’. The famous British historian Col. James Tod after seeing the splendid and mesmerizing beauty of Bhainsrorgarh said that if he was offered a fiefdom and given an option to choose it anywhere in Rajasthan, he would have chosen Bhainsrorgarh.

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The palace has been restored to its old world charm and your stay here will be one of the highlights during your Rajasthan tours. The fort has five large suites overlooking the river and paramount importance has been given to maintain the novelty of the architecture and decor by recreating the same aura in which royalties of Bhainsrorgarh lived.

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There are some rather interesting excursions that can be arranged to make your Rajasthan tours even more enjoyable. Apart from taking a boat ride on the River Chambal and going on a jeep safaris through the Mukundara National Park, do include a visit to the extraordinary Baroli temples dating from 9th century A.D that are situated 15kms from the fort in a secluded and peaceful wooded grove. The centerpiece is the 10th century Ghateshwar Mahadev Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The quality of the carvings here is unrivalled anywhere. The Temples have been sensitively restored and the surrounding gardens are well maintained and clean.

Rajasthan holidays

India, renowned for its profound cultures, vibrant arts, diverse cuisines and booming economy, can also be a place of sensory overload. It was with this in mind that Philippe developed Anopura: a place to experience and take in rural India – the country’s real heart and soul – gently, at your own pace, and as if from your own home.

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Situated approximately an hour’s drive from the Rajasthani capital of Jaipur, and nestled in the ancient Aravali mountains at the head of the beautiful Ramgarh Valley thus making it  a perfect retreat while on Rajasthan holidays. With just two luxurious bedroom suites, a luxury tent, excellent dining, impeccable staff and a location to die for, Anopura certainly warrants its title, the smallest luxury hotel in the world.  Built as a traditional Rajasthani country home with a stunning step-well inspired plunge pool, Anopura artfully brings together the ‘necessities’ of the most demanding Western traveler within a landscape and agricultural environment virtually unchanged in a millennia.

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Anopura was designed as a country house, surrounded by farmlands. It has a thatched roof so as to blend into the local countryside and carries a collection of local artworks. From the moment you arrive, the superbly trained staff welcomes you with chilled towels and fresh seasonal fruit juice, where you realize that you are truly in the lap of luxury. As you explore your new surroundings, you can move through the garden, rich with the scent of frangipani and other perfumed plants, arriving through a book-laden anteroom into Anopura’s shaded central courtyard, off which are the bedrooms, the dining room and a small study with satellite television and an Internet connected workstation.

In front of the house lies a stone clad plunge pool surrounded by charpoys, the traditional Indian day-bed, where you can lie back and take in the majestic views of the hills of the Aravali. On your Rajasthan holidays you may also choose to explore your new domain on foot, mountain bike, or more leisurely, by camel cart or jeep. To one side of the pool is a large pavilion for relaxing, reading, dining or simply taking aperitifs during sunset. Chotu, Anopura’s resident chef, trained in some of the finest restaurants of Rajasthan. Obviously a master of the delicious local Rajasthani dishes, he has also taken to Western and International cuisines with alacrity and has an extensive repertoire to suit any palette.

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Due to its proximity to Jaipur, one can use it as a base to see the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, Amber Fort, the Jaigarh Fort.  The renowned Sariska Tiger Reserve is just an hour’s drive as is Dera Amer where elephant safaris can be arranged. If you wish to take the road less travelled during your Rajasthan holidays, then consider travelling from Anopura to Ramathra Fort that lies south of the Golden Triangle offering stunning views of the countryside from its ramparts. At such places, absent is a bazaar with commercial traffic or food stalls. After the sun goes down, Bhajan-singing and community activities are more common than radio or television.  You can travel further south to stay at Bhainsrorgarh which is an ideal place from where one can visit the less explored town of Bundi famous for its beautiful palace and its frescos.  Udaipur famous for its floating palace and gorgeous city palace is just a 4 hour drive from Bhainsrorgarh and a superb way to end your Rajasthan holidays.

The journey through India is never ending. For most travellers North India meant a journey through the Golden Triangle visiting the iconic Taj Mahal and beautiful palaces in the colourful city of Jaipur. You can make it a memorable experience by trying to explore the rich heritage and diverse cultural influences of northern India by taking a tour that encompasses the holy city of Varanasi and the intricately carved temples at Khajuraho.
Varanasi is the spiritual heart of India – a seething throng of pilgrims, holy men, Saddhus and tourists, all gathered to give praise to the Holy Ganges. Combine that with a trip to the erotic temples of Khajuraho and Gwalior, a city with a remarkable ancient palace, temples and cenotaphs. Having backpacked through the subcontinent I always dreamt of luxury holidays to North India and finally embarked on one such journey. I boarded the Shatabdi Express, a fast train between Delhi and Gwalior. On arrival, a cheerful guide drove me to the beautiful Usha Kiran Palace where I was welcomed in true Gwalior tradition. Enter at this 120-year-old palace, which has played host to the King of England and is now a heritage hotel. Set amidst 9 acres of beautifully landscaped lawns, this regal palace, rich in history, is outfitted with artistic stone carvings and delicate filigree work. I visited the majestic Gwalior Fort on the day I arrived to experience the Son et Lumiere show. Replete with every contemporary amenity, its original architecture, meticulously restored, every dining moment at the Usha Kiran Palace is truly reminiscent of living as royalty. After a sumptuous breakfast I went on a guided visit to Gwalior Fort and the Archaeological Museum in the morning. Don’t miss the many giant Jain carvings hewn into the cliff sides leading to the fort. In the afternoon I wandered to the Palace Museum which is next door to your hotel. I continued my journey through this fascinating part of North India to visit Orchha and pretty village known for its outstanding palaces and temples set along the River Betwa.

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For someone going on luxury holidays to North India, Orchha doesn’t offer the Oberoi’s or the Taj’s but trust me, it’s a great stopover between Gwalior and Khajuraho. En route I stopped at Datia Fort which can be seen from miles around. After spending a day walking through the fairly less explored town of Orchha, I travelled by road to Khajuraho which is famous for its temples dating back to the 10th and 12th century. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were original over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 25 now stand in a reasonable state of preservation. My stay was at the Grand Temple View, the only luxury hotel within close proximity to the Western group of temples. For anyone visiting Khajuraho this is probably the best property to stay and guests have an option of choosing a temple view room to make their stay even more memorable. The roads are quiet here so you can hire some bikes and explore the more remote temples. The evening comes alive with the Son et Lumiere show at the main complex.

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After being templed out, I travelled by air to Varanasi the Hindu religious centre. I knew this was the highlight of my trip and my wish came true when I checked into the grand Nadesar Palace. Your search for luxury holidays in North India ends here. Situated in one of the oldest living cities of the world, on the banks of the river Ganges, Nadesar Palace has hosted royalty, statesmen and celebrities since 1835. The name Nadesar is derived from the Goddess Nadesari, whose shrine is located in the front of the Palace. Set amidst verdant gardens, mango orchards, marigold and jasmine fields, Nadesar Palace is a haven of peace and tranquillity. Works of art from the Maharaja’s collection decorate the walls of the Palace’s 10 luxurious suites. Embellished with original pieces of furniture refurbished to recreate the atmosphere of a bygone era, the décor of the rooms is intended to evoke the colours of marigolds, jasmines, and pale pink lotuses that are offered to the holy Ganges. Dining at the Nadesar Palace is an indulgent experience starting with breakfast on the sun-kissed veranda; a spiritually inspired plated meal at lunch in the dining room, and a barbeque dinner by the poolside.
Early in the morning I was taken to the Ganges for a boat ride at sunrise when you can witness people performing their morning rituals along the ghats. The boat ride was followed by a walking tour of the old city. If you aren’t tired it’s worth visiting Sarnath which is supposed to be the place where Buddha gave his first sermon. In the evening I visited the Dasaswamedh Ghat to experience a religious ceremony. It’s simple and an experience not to be missed.

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The palace has a beautiful spa that brings guests the essence of traditional royal wellness and therapeutic experiences. Blending ancient Indian wisdom with contemporary therapies, the Jiva Spa offers Indian rejuvenation therapies ranging from aromatherapy massages, time-honoured treatments, body scrubs and wraps.
My memorable journey through some of the most interesting cities and a fantastic luxury holiday to North India had come to an end. It was time to head back to the capital New Delhi.

Luxury holidays to India

Luxury,  as easy as it sounds is in fact extremely difficult when you actually try to define it.  During my visit to Rajasthan in July 2009, I came across the Aman Resorts, a chain of luxury resorts scattered not far away from each other in the colourful state of Rajasthan.  Since 1988 when the flagship Amanpuri opened in Phuket, Aman has established three resorts in India redefining luxury holidays to India.

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It’s difficult to express the guests experience at Aman as it ticks all the boxes. It offers an intimate and discreet experience while providing the highest level of service. Each resort and setting is unique, but certain elements characterise all of them — a beautiful natural location, outstanding facilities, exceptional service and a small number of rooms to ensure exclusivity and privacy.  From the garden estate Amanbagh set in the foothills of the Aravallis built in a haveli style to the wilderness camp Aman I Khas that sits on a gentle slope on the fringes of Ranthambore National Park against a backdrop of hills each leaves an impression, an indelible mark. Their newest addition is Aman Delhi just minutes from the grandeur of Rashtrapati Bhavan and the peaceful Lodhi gardens. It completes the triangle for someone in search of luxury holidays to India. The design of the resort is contemporary, complemented with Indian touches such as hand-made rugs and jaali screens. Spacious suites afford guests the opportunity to relax in enveloping comfort.

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Aman excursions are a class apart. I was particularly impressed by their walks that can be combined with culture trails.  At Aman Bagh the resort can arrange day trips to the Pink city of Jaipur and walks to the surrounding countryside.  The experience at Aman I Khas is focused on wildlife viewing. Having said that they also arrange visits to the Old City and Khandar Fort which is one of Rajasthan dramatic ruins. Not very far from the resort is the Banas River, an ideal spot for a picnic style lunch. The pools are fringed by water grass and decorated with lilies, creating an excellent feeding ground for wading birds and other water fowl. Guests can enjoy a half-day excursion to this birder’s paradise, strolling the banks of the river with a naturalist. At Aman Delhi they arrange off the beaten track tours to the Moghul city of Shahajanabad or to several private galleries that regularly host art exhibitions of paintings, pottery, sculptures, photographic art and prints by many up-and-coming artists.

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The Spa at Aman Resorts is a class apart. It provides a refined and peaceful environment in which to relax. Using organic Aman products created from pure and proactive ingredients, traditional treatments as well as henna art, local specialities are on offer.

Camel treks in India

Camel Treks in India come in many guises. The most popular – certainly the image that is conjured up by the phrase – is of brightly turbaned men leading camel trains across scrubby desert interspersed with giant sand dunes with a romantic looking desert castle in the background. This is the classic camel trek or camel safari of Rajasthan which are conducted in the Thar desert beyond Jodhpur and all the way to Jaisalmer and Bikaner where the desert plunges into Pakistan. For all it’s clichéd images, this remains a fantastic experience. There is nothing that can match the camels ability to navigate across these inhospitable lands and open up a magical realm of desert communities, wonderfully colourful nomads, amazing if austere scenery and an unimaginable wealth of wildlife. The Rajasthani’s are a naturally large-hearted and hospitable folk to which qualities they bring tremendous style and panache. Typically an overnight camel safari will camp in the middle of the dunes somewhere with not another tourist in sight and under the glitter of desert skies, you will be treated to superb music and food lit by mashals or flaming torches.

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But camel safaris or treks are available across Rajasthan and can go from just a couple of hours to several days. One of the best places to head out into the country-side is in a remote corner of southern Rajasthan where the landscape – while arid, is broken by jagged, rocky hills which are the haunt of leopards and hyena amongst other wildlife. It is a fantastic place to experience the Rajasthan that is rapidly disappearing under the press of 21^st century development. This is still a place where the seasons dictate the pace of life; where a group of nomads on the move – with their sheep and goats, swaying camels loaded with baggage, straight-backed women clothed in bright swirling clothes and white clad, scarlet turbaned shepherds still evoke a timeless way of life – and it is entirely fitting that it should be explored from atop a camel!

Rajasthan in Luxury -  There are so many definitions of ‘luxury’ in travel. For me luxury is not the sybaritic interpretation of extreme almost redundant comfort, but the joy of discovering some out of the way treasure that exceeds one’s expectations. For years I had been hearing about the medieval attractions of the Rajasthani town of Bundi. But Rajasthan is so abundantly gifted with beautiful places and charismatic cities that it’s taken me some time get round to Bundi. I finally made it in early October and what a revelation it was! A blue painted town snugged down within it’s medieval walls within a narrow valley dominated by steep but rounded hills which are in turn protected by stone walls snaking across their contours, their sinuous length anchored by impressive looking bastions. But what instantly holds one’s attention and really makes Bundi is the superbly imposing mass of palaces that rise in beautifully symmetric tiers from near the base of the hill that looms over the town. As we walk into the narrow entrance, the palace complex lies almost somnolent in the high Sun of forenoon. There are hardly any tourists here. We are met by a wiry middle-aged man who introduces himself as Mr. Bhatti. He is our guide. And for the next hour and a half he leads us through the various rooms, courtyards, corridors, staircases, audience chambers, bed chambers on a wondrous fairy tale tour. It is beautiful, smaller than the exterior suggests – and empty! Over the centuries Bundi developed a unique and to my eyes extraordinarily graceful school of art. Everywhere we found the walls of the various rooms sumptuously decorated with the most magical paintings most often rendered in subtle shades of blue and green with just hints of other colours adding counter-point to the frame. The detail, the vigour, the observation and the skill and beauty of the artists drew you irresistibly into the world that they were illustrating.

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I didn’t have a chance to wander through the entire walled town of Bundi but I would love to spend a night there climbing to the top of the hill and exploring the fortifications at first light and sunset and also pottering through the various palaces looking for what secret places the slanting light of early morning may unlock.

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There are no large hotels, thankfully, within Bundi. The town and its streets are too narrow for that. There are a couple of charming heritage hotels though my favourite being the Braj Bhushanji Haveli (mansion) owned by a family that has contributed a prime minister and several ministers to the erstwhile princely state. It is the most authentic, retaining all the art and décor of a traditional small Rajasthani mansion. The rooms are generous, beautifully decorated and extremely comfortable. Best of all it is authentic perfectly complementing the town and it’s magnificent castle.

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Rajasthan Holidays – My friend Balendu Singh is one of those annoying characters who does everything better than I can: he owns a lovely small hotel called Dev Vilas just outside Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve which, despite his protestations seems forever full. At least I can never get a room there. Of an evening you will find Balendu holding court either by the swimming pool or on the expansive terrace just above it. He is an historian, naturalist, hard-headed conservationist, no mean photographer and a thoroughly entertaining raconteur of Rajput tales, jokes and history. Charming, knowledgeable and warmly hospitable, it’s no wonder his fan club keeps growing and I can’t get a room in his hotel. Balendu belongs to the growing tribe of Rajput aristocrats who have taken to the hospitality business with such enthusiasm, zest and style that it is now possible to explore the very depths of beautiful and untouched rural Rajasthan, staying in some of the most spectacular forts and palaces that have been rescued from crumbling ruins by their owners and converted to some of the most beautiful and stylish heritage hotels you can imagine. This takes luxury travel in India to another dimension altogether. Because not only are you treated to the creature comforts and superb local food but you have the company of the owner who treats you as a personal guest spending time and often guiding you around his or her area, providing insights that are impossible to gain from the formulaic efficiency of an ‘industrial’ 5 star hotel. You come as a guest and leave as a friend – for the Rajputs that is more than just a catchy tag line.

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Rajasthan in luxury to me means a remote camp deep in the stark, arid rocky country of southern Rajasthan peopled by a handsome and colourful race of shepherds called the Rebaris where the descendants of the erstwhile feudal barons have negotiated an innovative arrangement with the shepherds to help protect the local wildlife and where you can ride a lean, hardy local breed of horse looking for wildlife that includes leopard and hyena far from any national park or sanctuary. This is the India that is under threat of extinction before the march of 21^st century ‘development’. See it before all that remains is tourist ‘theme parks’.