Is it possible to contemplate holidays in eastern Himalayas – of any description -  without Darjeeling intruding somewhere? In 1896 Mark Twain boarded the ‘Toy Train’ at Siliguri and was so entranced by the 40 mile, 8-hour journey to Darjeeling that he immediately declared it as “the most enjoyable day I have spent on the Earth.” And if you have seen BBC 4’s wonderful series on Indian Hill Trains with one of the episodes devoted to the Darjeeling hill train or Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (in its present avatar of world heritage monument), you’ll understand just why. It isn’t just the stupendous scenery as the track jacknifes its way up some of the most precipitous mountains on Earth; it isn’t even the richness of trees and plants and flowers and shrubs that that you encounter or even the velvety lushness of the endless tea that you pass through beyond Kurseong. No – it’s the fact that this little train and its tiny tracks are so deeply woven into the human landscape of the Darjeeling hills, shouldering it’s way through traffic jams and pedestrians and roadside markets and quaint little stations, monasteries and temples, often at no more than a slow walking pace – a human pace. And if you are incredibly lucky and find a completely clear day, you could even find yourself steaming past the massive rearing bulk of Kangchenjunga seemingly almost within touching distance. That is magic.

Eastern Himalayas

But don’t harbour too many illusions about Darjeeling. Yes, some of the old buildings of the Raj remain but for the most part the town has surrendered to the ramshackle decrepitude and general nondescriptness that has infected so many of the old hill stations. Not so the surrounding countryside, however. A mere hour and a half from Darjeeling and 3000 feet lower will bring you to Glenburn.

Glenburn

Glenburn is the name of a tea plantation and in the name one can detect the plaintive yearning of a Brit far from home – a yearning quickly doused by the cold realities of ‘home’ when compared with the indulgences of India during the Raj – especially if you were a Sahib. Well – think of all the indulgences, service, comfort, scenery, outdoor recreation, indoor décor and style, cuisine and little un-thought of luxuries that your imagination might conjure up – then multiply by two and you have Glenburn. A fabulous creation of Husna-Tara Prakash, the wife of the owner of Glenburn, who has converted the old managers bungalow and added another new wing built in faithful imitation of the old planter’s style and furnished them with such perfect taste and understated but natural style that the word ‘boutique’ intrudes as a crass interloper. I have one rule – if any client gets anywhere near the eastern Himalayas, they have to end up at Glenburn – no matter how many raging mountain torrents they have to ford, cliff-edge mule-tracks to negotiate, yak trains they have to follow – Glenburn is a must. Almost my most favourite place in these hills. Watch this space…