If asked – where are the best tiger safaris in India, then this is one story which convinces me that Corbett must rank as one of the best places to view them in relative privacy. There were five of us in the jeep, including two experienced local guides and of course it had to be the least experienced who spotted her – a striped beauty watching us from the pebbled bank of a channel of the Ramganga River in Corbett Tiger Reserve. We were the first jeep there and the tigress felt too exposed as more vehicles arrived. Suddenly, with the effortless power of her kind she was up the bank, across the road and floating gracefully off into the jungle. It was February and the undergrowth under the towering sal trees had thinned out, so we watched her for a satisfying minute or more before she melted into the bush. We had just arrived off the train from Delhi that morning. As we drove the two hours along the more or less deserted roads of early morning, my excitement mounted. In common with so many of my generation I had been an avid reader of Jim Corbett’s adventures in these foothills. And here we were driving through the towns and villages that had once been his stamping grounds – Haldwani and Kaladhungi and Ramnagar. This was mythic country!

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The heart of Corbett Tiger Reserve is the beautiful valley of the Ramganga River, winding through narrow, forest clad hills, its course punctuated by deep pools that are the haunt of golden mahseer – one of the worlds most prized game fishes – and giant goonch a catfish as big as a grown man. And basking on the banks are the long sleek shapes of gharial – a rare fish-eating crocodilian endemic to the Subcontinent. To enter this zone of Corbett requires an overnight booking in one of the old forest resthouses dating from the Raj era that are picturesquely located about half-a-days ride apart. Our luck is in from the moment we pass the gates. A cock Kalij pheasant, elegant in black and white plumage with gaudy scarlet eye-patch struts his stuff at the very edge of dense, moist undergrowth. As we near Dhikala where ancient sal trees shade the jungle, we encounter a wonderful heard of elephants – mothers and calves. And then immediately after lunch the splendid lady in stripes. Could it get any better? It could. Ritish Suri, our expert guide and owner of the award-winning Camp Forktail Creek, has booked an elephant for us. No sooner had we clambered aboard and headed into the dense high elephant grass, than we picked up the fresh tracks of another tigress. The chase was on and suddenly there she was – a slim elegant figure disappearing into the grass.

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As we turn back a Pallas’ Fish eagle wheels low over our heads. The sun is beginning to sink into the hollow hills and it was time to head for the splendid isolation of our magical resthouse in the middle of tiger country – and a hot cup of tea.

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Tiger Safaris in India – The high season for travel in India – especially for wildlife safaris – is traditionally from late October until mid April, with February and March being the peak months in north and central India – and for good reason. The bitter cold of January mornings and evenings has lost its edge and the vegetation is beginning to die back allowing for greater visibility especially in the moist forests dominated by sal trees. But the fact is that each month has something special to offer and my favourite time is undoubtedly the green lush period after the monsoon. As I write this in early October, I am in the middle of travelling slowly through the remoter parts of central India visiting old friends in Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Panna Tiger Reserves and checking out the rash of new properties that have crowded into these beautiful places – of which more later.

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At Jabalpur station I am met by my friend Jehan Bhujwala who – with his wife Katie – owns and runs the lovely Shergarh Camp in Mukki, Kanha. As we twist, turn, rock and roll around and through the potholes that do service for the highway between Jabalpur and Mandla I stare delightedly out of the window at the impossibly beautiful countryside we are driving through. Lush deep green paddy fields crowd against the dark green forested hills of the Maikal Range of the Satpura Mountains. This is a region that is blessed with rich soil and plentiful water. It is drained by the stunningly beautiful Narmada River – the Sacred Virgin – that cleanses even the Ganges of its burden of sins. Against the mosaic of subtle greens the cluster of beautiful red-tiled roofs that mark a village or hamlet add interest and depth to the scenery. The houses here are substantial – built of mud and wood with the elegance and beauty of architecture evolved and honed over centuries to deal with the climate, social conventions, practical requirements and available raw materials. Traditional architecture, in short and it is magnificent. I drive through prosperous villages in Jehan’s open jeep that are spotless, uncontaminated by plastic and the horrors of flat RCC roofs.  In one charming village, half the village high street appears to be occupied by just a handful of dwellings stretching amazing distances on either side of the road, pierced periodically by elegant gateways that lead to large courtyards. As I peer through them I can see that behind the outer wall is a thriving community of inter-connected homes, courtyards, wells, barns, cow-sheds – clearly the dwelling of an entire clan where the high wall screens the women folk from public gaze and allows for complete privacy. It is utterly charming and unique to this region.

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We ford crystal clear streams that are overhung by arjuna and jamun trees and patrolled by dozens of species of dragonflies. Indeed nothing can compare with the sheer richness of colourful insect life at this time. Village ponds, meadows, streams have their air-space densely occupied by dozens of hawkers, darters, darners, ghosts, ditch jewels stacked high in darting squadrons, wings glittering dangerously in the sunlight. Magic!

Tiger Safaris and Goa

Possibly the best area to see tigers anywhere is the clutch of reserves that span the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh (and parts of neighbouring Maharashtra) that occupies the rugged heart of the subcontinent. With relatively low population densities and the largest absolute area of forest, this region – about the size of France – supports 8 tiger reserves of the total 30 that exist across the entire country. The habitats range from moist to dry deciduous jungles and each of the reserves offers a unique experience due to the differing scenery, habitat, surrounding cultural and historic attractions. Some of the reserves like Satpura also offer a unique model of tourism with a greater emphasis on walking safaris and enjoyment of the entire eco-system that the tiger occupies rather than just a tiger centric experience. While it is possible to visit all the parks of this region in one trip, we strongly advise limiting the number of parks to a maximum of 3 with at least four nights spent in each. If you are into walking and enjoying wildlife in a quiet undisturbed manner then Satpura should be part of any mix of parks where Forsyth’s Lodge offers very comfortable accommodation, excellent guiding and a unique wilderness experience. But as anyone who has a bit of experience knows, safaris can be hard work. By the end of two and a half weeks the lodge swimming pools simply don’t cut it for relaxation and thoughts can turn to vegetating by a beach somewhere.

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Goa lends itself perfectly to this role.  Despite the growth in charters this traffic remains pretty localised and huge swathes of coastal Goa remain quiet and charming, with a wonderful selection of beautifully restored boutique resorts and getaways. Some of them are so jealous of their seclusion that they won’t even tell you where they are located until you actually pay for the booking! The sea in Goa is always warm, the food is a delicious mix of Indian and Portuguese and because of it’s Portuguese association the state is exempt many of the excise and customs duties on alcohol that bind the rest of India. You guessed it – cheap and good booze. Which doesn’t mean that Sun, Sea and booze is the sum of Goa’s attractions. The colonial past has left a huge number of beautiful buildings, charming villas and distinctive villages; thriving markets offer some wonderful shopping and the wildlife – particularly the birds – are nothing short of spectacular. People forget that backing the Goa coast is a high range of mountains – the Sahyadris of the Western Ghats which are clothed in wet and rain forest teeming with a colourful array of birds and other wildlife. A couple of lovely camps and lodges allow you access to these treasures and the opportunity to experience the contrast and diversity of Goa. Hmmm, trying to think of a good title for a safari and Goa holiday – Tigers & Vindaloo? Perhaps not…

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Bespoke India is really where our heart lies. I mean, here is this incredibly vast and varied country, with so much choice of highly individual accommodation, so many options of activity in the same destinations as to be able to cater to virtually every individual taste. How can you package that? Why would you want to? A bespoke holiday allows you the luxury of choosing the most appropriate accommodation for each area. In Agra we unequivocally recommend the sumptuous Oberoi Amar Vilas. It is almost extravagantly indulgent but in an utterly appropriate manner, for Agra was the capital of the Great Mughals and every single room of this magnificent hotel enjoys uninterrupted views of the Taj Mahal – the central attraction that draws people to Agra from every corner of the globe. The Amar Vilas is built in sandstone and in a style that is a modern iteration of the grace and grandeur of Mughal architecture replete with filigreed stone work, screens, courtyards full of fountains and flowers. Perfect base from which to explore the marvels of Mughal architecture that grace Agra. On a package ‘luxury’ tour you would then willy-nilly be locked into similar opulence everywhere your itinerary takes you. And you will have a safe and predictably fantastic time – but it just could be that when you get to Jaipur for instance, rather than automatically stay at the Oberoi Raj Vilas you would take our recommendation and stay instead in the Samode Haveli – a nobleman’s converted town house which affords you the luxury of stepping out of a historic building bang into the middle of the crowds, colour and bustle of Old Jaipur – which is what you have actually come to Jaipur to see and experience. Samode Haveli is an authentic part of old Jaipur in a way that the Raj Vilas for all its extraordinary beauty and luxury, simply is not. A bespoke holiday allows you the choice.

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But it isn’t just about accommodations, its about people. The most extraordinary experiences for a traveller are when you connect with someone local on a human level and go away with insights about a culture and society that is impossible in large commercial establishments. One of the least ‘stylish’ small hotels that we use for example also is a highlight in terms of experience for people we have sent there. Simply because the experience here is so extraordinary, so remote, so authentically exotic – looking for leopards and wildlife that live amongst a stark rocky landscape at the edge of the desert and inhabited by a hardy, extraordinarily colourful shepherd tribe. The family you stay with are descendants of the feudal barons of the area who can trace their lineage to the mid-13^th century.  And they are the warmest, most gracious and hospitable people you can hope to be hosted by anywhere. It isn’t for everyone – but that’s what bespoke means. Understanding what you want and then designing the holiday to your tastes.

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