In 2004 the founders of Shakti saw that an increasing number of sophisticated travellers were seeking something beyond five-star luxury and great monuments – something simpler, which would take them off the well-trodden paths and closer to India’s landscape, her people and their living cultures. In response they developed the village walks in Kumaon, Sikkim and  very recently in Ladakh a perfect answer for tourists keen on walking holidays in Himalayas.

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One of the perks of working for a tour operator is the opportunity to visit such off the beaten track locations and to experience great products designed by the gurus of travel. In 2007 I had the pleasure of going on a 4 day village walk through the Kumaon hills in the Western Himalayan, a region unknown to people outside of India. Shakti, who fell in love with the region is extremely grateful for this as they were able to pioneer the village walks concept in an unspoilt part of India. The walks have been carefully designed for travellers who are planning walking holidays in Himalayas and would prefer not to compromise on their creature comforts yet see places off the beaten track. You follow the villagers’ own ancient footpaths, which meander among pine forests and terraced fields of rice and wheat.

Walking Holidays in Himalayas with IndianExplorations.com

The journey from Delhi to Kathgodam was adventurous but interesting. I was met by my guide at Kathgodam and was driven to Almora from where the walks begin. On arrival a lovely Kumauni family greeted me to my first village house. Shakti’s Kumaon village houses have been renovated to make them cosy and comfortable, yet to keep their simple charm and authenticity of living in a Himalayan village house. The friendly families promise a comfortable stay and a delicious meal during your stay. The bathrooms are outside (not en-suite) with western toilets and the adjoining shower rooms have slate tiles and showers are taken (in local tradition) using brass buckets and mugs filled with hot water that our staff have boiled for you.

Walking Holidays in Himalayas with IndianExplorations.com

Over the course of four days we walked through pretty villages, stretches of pine forest, descended into scenic valleys, explored several architectural marvels from the 8^th – 12^th centuries dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at the villages of Alai and Kana before reaching Jwalabanj. The village women’s saris are a flash of vivid colour as they go about their daily tasks – just as they have done for centuries. The children stare, shy at first sight of rare strangers in their world – wreathed in smiles as they run towards you with cries of ‘Namaste!’.  If you feel that you have walked enough by the time you have reached Jwalabanj your itinerary is completely private and flexible and if you wanted to, you could spend your afternoon sitting outside reading a good book and admiring the scenery. As night falls, the village men prepare a delicious, home-cooked meal over the wood fire and, later, you sit in the moonlight, the stillness broken only by the sound of a dog barking in a distant valley.

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The true icing on the cake is your stay at 360 Leti which is a luxury camp set in a world class location and facility. You can combine it with the village walks as I did. After the final night in Jwalabanj Village House, you can be driven 4 hrs to the road head, and walk 1.5 hours to the camp. This amazing property has four cottages with teak floors – all en-suite and with private sit outs and glorious views.  Aesthetically designed to absorb the surroundings the communal living/dining area have glass walls, enabling maximum enjoyment of the views around. October – March is great for walking holidays in Himalayas as it offers the best views. The wild cherry trees come into blossom in Oct/Nov and then Dec/Jan can become cold at night, however, a time when the mountain views can be at their best.

Walking Holidays in Himalayas with IndianExplorations.com

Some of my experience of Leti is the early mornings that cast a pink glow over the snow-covered peaks; Energised by the crystalline air, you may already be out walking with your guide, through the ancient rhododendron forests. Or you may choose to linger over a long, slow breakfast. As the sun rises higher, the achingly pure light casts sharply defined shadows. Eagles soar and swoop on the rising thermals. There’s no sound, other than the breeze and an occasional snatch of birdsong. Mesmerised by the beauty, you may simply sit and stare. Or you might pack fishing gear and a picnic lunch and hike down to the river at the base of the valley. There are long walks, dipping into the glacial waters if you can hack it, and guides with informed chat about everything from local micro-societies to fungi facts.  In the evening you gather around the lodge fireplace, before an astonishingly delicious dinner cooked by their exquisite Tibetan chef, served by candle light.

I strongly believe that one cannot have rewards without effort and more so on walking holidays in Himalayas. The location is superlative. The effort to arrive enhances the experience and the hospitality is overwhelming. It’s hard to put into words the experience you would have but I am certain that it’s a place that one hopes everyone would have the good fortune to visit once in their lifetime.

Holiday in Eastern Himalayas – in the previous piece I talked a bit about Glenburn and forgot to mention the fact that it is still very much a working tea garden and the manager of that side of things is a chap called Sanjay Sharma. If you like fishing, snakes, walking, birding or just having a bit of a yak about all things wild and outdoorsy – Sanjay is your man. Terrific company – backed up by the quiet charm and efficiency of the manager of the hotel side of Glenburn – Nina. Nina is a retired planter’s wife and creates such a warm and hospitable atmosphere that a stay at Glenburn is like being indulged in the home of well-off friends. And there’s so much to do here – visits to Darjeeling, fishing and rafting on the Rangeet river which flows into the mighty Teestha not too far away; the most extravagant picnics at the little lodge by the river where you could even spend a night; walks – but be warned – this is the Eastern Himalayas – some of the steepest country on earth. Walking downhill is bad enough but be careful what you commit yourself to on the return! Oh – and did I mention that you have the most fabulous views of Kangchenjunga? And because the Eastern Himalayas are not always clear, the staff have a lovely habit – on a clear morning – of waking you at dawn so you can feast on the magnificent view – cup of Darjeeling in hand.